Upper ball joint spacers for 4x4

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GreaseMonkey

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I definitely don’t want to do anything sketchy and I like to do things the right way. I’m not trying to crank my bars just looking for some more droop when the wheel drops down.


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Supercharged111

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I definitely don’t want to do anything sketchy and I like to do things the right way. I’m not trying to crank my bars just looking for some more droop when the wheel drops down.


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I hear ya, my initial thought was it'd screw with your geometry but that's not the case here. Only question now is if the longer bolts are still safe.
 

McBroom

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I hear ya, my initial thought was it'd screw with your geometry but that's not the case here. Only question now is if the longer bolts are still safe.
They'd have to be grade 8 or better for me to use them.
OP if the bolts are shiny silver dont use them. If they're a blackish green then they're good to go

The Blue Mule
 

Supercharged111

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They'd have to be grade 8 or better for me to use them.
OP if the bolts are shiny silver dont use them. If they're a blackish green then they're good to go

The Blue Mule

Is grade 5 or grade 8 the right answer here? With all the shock the suspension sees.
 

GreaseMonkey

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They'd have to be grade 8 or better for me to use them.
OP if the bolts are shiny silver dont use them. If they're a blackish green then they're good to go

The Blue Mule

This is exactly what I was thinking. I could always buy new hardware if it’s not but that’s an added expense.


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Ehall8702

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Is there another way?


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Flip upper ball joints to bottom of upper control arm and knock out the extra slot for upper control arm bushings cam bolts. 3/4 and 1 ton come stock with ball joints on the bottom of the upper arms....then go get an alignment.
 

GreaseMonkey

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Flip upper ball joints to bottom of upper control arm and knock out the extra slot for upper control arm bushings cam bolts. 3/4 and 1 ton come stock with ball joints on the bottom of the upper arms....then go get an alignment.

I’ve heard of this method as well but forgot. Only bad thing about that is I would have to pay for an alignment again. I guess either way I would though if I remove the ball joint to install spacer.


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GreaseMonkey

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Flip upper ball joints to bottom of upper control arm and knock out the extra slot for upper control arm bushings cam bolts. 3/4 and 1 ton come stock with ball joints on the bottom of the upper arms....then go get an alignment.

After looking at this today there is no adjustment at the ball joint it just bolts to upper control arm. The cam bolts are at the other end of control arms. My truck is a 93 k2500.


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Supercharged111

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After looking at this today there is no adjustment at the ball joint it just bolts to upper control arm. The cam bolts are at the other end of control arms. My truck is a 93 k2500.


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He's saying attach it to the bottom of the arm, not the top. From the factory, those cam bolts aren't adjustable. You need to remove the bolts, punch out the bits that are in there, and reinstall so the alignment shop can get the truck where it needs to be and you avoid paying them the labor to punch those things out for you.
 
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