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Archaic2021

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Posted before chasing a p302 cyl missifre.

Good Compression, new plugs, wires, rotor and cap. Still misfire on cyl 2. Getting some contamiation on plug smells like fuel and also loosing a bit of coolant. From what most people told me here the injector is leaking..

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I have a full upper gasket kit to replace all gaskets.

FJ504 fuel injectors. What else do I need.

I know I will need to do a oil change after
 

TreeGeared

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Razor blade for removing gasket stuck to intake or heads.
Marker to mark position of distributor before removing from intake.
Do you have RTV?
May be worth getting a leakdown tester or rent one and make sure you don't have coolant leak elsewhere after the intake gasket replacement.
 

stutaeng

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What truck from the collection is this? The 99 2500, I assume? When I did my 5.7 Vortec injectors I only had to remove the cap and rotor. I just tore into the upper plenum, although I had bought the entire Felpro gasket set.
 
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1998_K1500_Sub

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What else do I need.

These come to mind:


in-lb torque wrench for intake bolts + torque specs for same bolts (and replacement bolts? are they single-use?)

some sort of replacement for the quick-connect coolant fitting (if needed) and hose (if needed)

tap to clear out the various holes (not required but I found it handy)

fuel pressure gauge to check it when it's back together

some means to re-install the distributor and get the cam sensor "just right", e.g., a scan tool

adult beverages for later
 
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Schurkey

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Posted before chasing a p302 cyl missifre.
Perhaps a moderator will merge this thread with your previous thread.
www.gmt400.com/threads/what-to-prepare-for-before-i-rip-into-engine.58083/page-5#post-1242363

Good Compression, new plugs, wires, rotor and cap. Still misfire on cyl 2. Getting some contamiation on plug smells like fuel and also loosing a bit of coolant. From what most people told me here the injector is leaking..

I have a full upper gasket kit to replace all gaskets.

FJ504 fuel injectors. What else do I need.
Is this the Standard Motor Products FJ504, or some off-brand knockoff using the SMP part number?

I said in your other thread that the #2 plug looks more oil-fouled than fuel-fouled; but it's hard to know for sure based on one photo.

Be sure to solvent-clean the intake manifold, including the EGR passages. That means removing the ENTIRE INTAKE MANIFOLD, not just the top part. Also gets you fresh intake gaskets which--hopefully--solves your coolant-loss problem.

You're going to open the cooling system. Now's the time to perform a coolant flush; and replace the aged anti-freeze. Be sure to remove the knock sensor from the passenger side, and the block drain plug from the driver's side, to get all the old coolant out for recycling (and to remove the flush-water.) The knock sensor will need sealant on the threads, and installed to torque spec.

Beware the EGR tube from exhaust manifold to intake manifold. They can rust in place. The aftermarket has replacement tubes; no promises on the quality.
 
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xXxPARAGONxXx

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You should not use a cutting tap (i.e., your typical tap) to chase/clean existing threads. Use a tool specifically identified as a thread chaser/cleaner (i.e., a chaser tap). A cutting tap will remove metal.


ARP makes a nice array of thread chasers/cleaners.

 

Schurkey

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