under hood temperature management

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yevgenievich

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97 k2500 suburban.

Been searching and looking at adding louvers on the hood and taking the intake tube outside via a snorkel. Running too hot under the hood even when engine is just at operating temperature.

something like this for louvers:

and not sure on snorkel yet.
Wondering if anybody experimented with things.

In addition was considering wrapping the headers(they are short style and ceramic coated). And do need to get the engine it self cooler a bit. Tends to run 200-220, and trying to get it to stay at 195-200. New clutch for the fan and has factory aux fan that is wired to turn on at 190*.
 

0xDEADBEEF

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Louvers made a huge difference on my C5 track toy, both oil and water temps dropped. This probably doesn't apply to your truck, but it also popped the high pressure air pocket under the hood that made the front end light at high speed.

I never noticed any difference in the pits, but you could see the heat waves rising out of them.
 

Supercharged111

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I want to get those same louvers for the dually. Apparently it runs hot oil and trans temps when towing with 210-220 coolant.
 

yevgenievich

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I was thinking putting louvers on the sides of the hood. The idea is to not disturb that much air coming in through radiator by fan when at speed
 

yevgenievich

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Downside of the louvers would be loosing sound insulation on the hood
 

GrimsterGMC

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97 k2500 suburban.

Been searching and looking at adding louvers on the hood and taking the intake tube outside via a snorkel. Running too hot under the hood even when engine is just at operating temperature.

something like this for louvers:

and not sure on snorkel yet.
Wondering if anybody experimented with things.

In addition was considering wrapping the headers(they are short style and ceramic coated). And do need to get the engine it self cooler a bit. Tends to run 200-220, and trying to get it to stay at 195-200. New clutch for the fan and has factory aux fan that is wired to turn on at 190*.
The idea of the ceramic coating is to keep the heat inside of the pipes so that's already working to your advantage and wrapping them will only shorten the life of the coating so not recommended. The header manufacturers say you will void the warranty if you wrap them as well so it obviously makes a big difference.
 

1998_K1500_Sub

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The idea of the ceramic coating is to keep the heat inside of the pipes

That's how the slick-sheets read, but does the coating ever really do that to any notable extent? I don't know the exact answer, I think the answer is "no", and an unbiased third-party test would be welcomed.

Coated headers sure look s3xy tho, but I found out that JetHot's finish doesn't last too long. I then used Swaintech to re-coat them just last year, it'll be interesting to see how that finish holds-up.

wrapping them will only shorten the life of the coating so not recommended. The header manufacturers say you will void the warranty if you wrap them as well so it obviously makes a big difference.

That's my understanding as well.
 
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GrimsterGMC

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That's how the slick-sheets read, but does the coating ever really do that to any notable extent? I don't know the exact answer, I think the answer is "no", and an unbiased third-party test would be welcomed.

Coated headers sure look s3xy tho, but I found out that JetHot's finish doesn't last too long. I then used Swaintech to re-coat them just last year, it'll be interesting to see how that finish holds-up.



That's my understanding as well.
I have a set of Hedman Elite long tube header and are ceramic coated. When I put them on, and after the first good drive, I lifted the bonnet and ran my hand past them and I can say that they are definitely cooler than the stock manifolds that were replaced so are giving off a lot less heat into the engine bay. I also noticed while the engine is running and the bonnet up that all the air pulled through the radiator immediately hits the wall of auxiliary components bolted to the front of the engine creating a pressure zone right there. The air draft is forced straight upwards into the bonnet when closed, so thinking about the original GT40 and the hole they cut in the bonnet just behind the radiator you could put a vent there and create a less restricted airflow through the radiator and up over the bonnet rather than heating the whole engine bay. The key is finding the low pressure zone over the bonnet so it doesn't try to push back down negating any and all benefits gained.
 

Supercharged111

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I have a set of Hedman Elite long tube header and are ceramic coated. When I put them on, and after the first good drive, I lifted the bonnet and ran my hand past them and I can say that they are definitely cooler than the stock manifolds that were replaced so are giving off a lot less heat into the engine bay. I also noticed while the engine is running and the bonnet up that all the air pulled through the radiator immediately hits the wall of auxiliary components bolted to the front of the engine creating a pressure zone right there. The air draft is forced straight upwards into the bonnet when closed, so thinking about the original GT40 and the hole they cut in the bonnet just behind the radiator you could put a vent there and create a less restricted airflow through the radiator and up over the bonnet rather than heating the whole engine bay. The key is finding the low pressure zone over the bonnet so it doesn't try to push back down negating any and all benefits gained.

You can just tape a bunch of yarn tufts to the hood to get an idea of that.
 
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