Truck cranks but doesnt start

[obsguy124]

*** UPDATE ***
I’ve done a compression test and everything seems to be good at about 170-185 psi range, I’ve also tested the injectors to see if they are receiving pulse from the ECM with a noid test light kit and all of the injectors seem to be receiving pulse.

What I’m currently doing is removing the timing cover off to see how the timing chain is looking, I’ll update you guys as soon as I get done here.

 

[Crazydavez28]

While you are in there check to see if there is any fine metal build up on the crank sensor. Mine always acted like it was running backwards and would chug a stinky exhaust out the intake until I cleaned out the distributor.

If you rotate the engine to TDC on number 1 and check the position of the rotor that also indicates your timing situation.

 

[obsguy124]

Alright guys so I managed to take off the timing cover and the timing for the engine is GOOD everything lines up and the timing chain didnt skip. Man this truck is wearing me out, I think ive narrowed everything down to the fuel pump but then again if it was a fuel issue starter fluids WOULD work and not backfire. Well see what happens next, stay tuned!

 

[obsguy124]

While you are in there check to see if there is any fine metal build up on the crank sensor. Mine always acted like it was running backwards and would chug a stinky exhaust out the intake until I cleaned out the distributor.

If you rotate the engine to TDC on number 1 and check the position of the rotor that also indicates your timing situation.

I pulled out the crank sensor and it was clean, no metal shaving thankfully.

 

[98 K1500 L31]

I had a very similar issue, it would crank and crank but wouldn't run, but the next day it might start. It ended up being the ignition control module on mine. I bought a cheap one first, but it was worse than before. So i finally just bought a performance distributor icm and haven't had a issue since. Just as well replace the coil while you're at it. Its easy to get to, wont break the bank, and eliminates some variables. Considering you have good compression and timing is correct, but wont run on ether or gas it about has to be ignition.

 

[sparky]

distributor module

 

[brian c lindsey]

you need to stop using starting fluid , it drys out cylinders and too much will destroy engine , if you must , use penetration oil , i is oil based and will not dry out cylinders and it will work the same as starting fluid

 

[obsguy124]

Got it I’ll take a look at those, I actually bought a distributor before taking the old one out and ended up returning it because the old one looked fine. Might just the buy the distributor back.

 

[obsguy124]

you need to stop using starting fluid , it drys out cylinders and too much will destroy engine , if you must , use penetration oil , i is oil based and will not dry out cylinders and it will work the same as starting fluid

I’ve been using just fuel for the most part, only really used other fluids once but thanks for the heads up.

 

[obsguy124]

ALRIGHT LADIES AND GENTLEMEN!

Ive finally found the issue! It was the cap and rotor all along and I found out because the spark plugs were firing but something was off about them. There was spark but it was very rapid and it was arcing but after replacing the cap and rotor and adjusting the cam offset the truck is running like new and it’s running better than before!

I would like to thank everyone in this forum for helping me out with tips and things that possibly went bad in my truck!