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someotherguy

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Didn't get as far as I'd hoped. Figured I'd have the axle shafts changed already, and therefore the drums, shoes, differential inspected. Nope, not there yet. I did verify that the driveshaft is too long. I don't think these can be shortened; at least not locally. One wheel is a nice aluminum job with a poor tire, the other is a steelie with a crap tire.


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The non-axle items.


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Why we don't re-use U-bolts. GM says they have to be replaced no matter what; I can't say I understand that at least when they're in good condition. But around here, they're never in good condition. The bracket it bolts through holds dreck that rots 'em near the ends of the U-bolts.
You're supposed to always use new u-bolts becasue they're torque-to-yield. Regardless, that degree of rust although severe, is pretty common on them, even in non-rust belt areas! These are from a Texas truck:
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A great example of why those u-bolt flip kits are a good idea. No more collection spots for mud and moisture to sit.

As far as shortening that driveshaft, I'm pretty sure it's all aluminum, with a wrap of some composite sort of material - perhaps for strength, also possibly for sound deadening? I haven't personally experienced it, but I've read of others where the wrap has failed and the driveshaft underneath is fine. Others have had the wrap fail because the driveshaft corroded and the swelling cracked the wrap.

Richard
 

454cid

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You're supposed to always use new u-bolts becasue they're torque-to-yield. Regardless, that degree of rust although severe, is pretty common on them, even in non-rust belt areas! These are from a Texas truck:
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A great example of why those u-bolt flip kits are a good idea. No more collection spots for mud and moisture to sit.

In 2018, I looked at my brackets and they were somehow rust free... IN MICHIGAN! I have no idea how. I should try to check them out again.

As far as shortening that driveshaft, I'm pretty sure it's all aluminum, with a wrap of some composite sort of material - perhaps for strength, also possibly for sound deadening? I haven't personally experienced it, but I've read of others where the wrap has failed and the driveshaft underneath is fine. Others have had the wrap fail because the driveshaft corroded and the swelling cracked the wrap.

Richard

I'm suprised to hear of that shaft contruction on a diesel. I thought it was mainly the base model V6 trucks that got those carbon/aluminum shafts. I have not looked at one closely.
 

PlayingWithTBI

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Regardless, that degree of rust although severe, is pretty common on them, even in non-rust belt areas! These are from a Texas truck:
Here's the bolts from my 88 CA/AZ truck. I'm pretty sure they're not OE since the PO put in an "add a leaf" kit. All I did was spray some PB Blaster on them the day before and they all came off easily. I did use all new bolts, nuts, and washer anyway.
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smdk2500

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A great example of why those u-bolt flip kits are a good idea. No more collection spots for mud and moisture to sit.
Not to highjack Schurkey's post but do you have a kit that you would recommend? I've always had this damage that these can get in the back of my mind but have never done anything about it on my truck.
 

Supercharged111

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Here's the bolts from my 88 CA/AZ truck. I'm pretty sure they're not OE since the PO put in an "add a leaf" kit. All I did was spray some PB Blaster on them the day before and they all came off easily. I did use all new bolts, nuts, and washer anyway.
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No pics here, but my CO/SD/CO truck was the same way. I reused them until my 1" spacer forced me to use longer (aftermarket) bolts, but we have a muffler shop in town that bends them for you and they'll give you whatever diameter you want. I think I went with 9/16" or 5/8" on the dually.
 

smdk2500

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I'm suprised to hear of that shaft contruction on a diesel. I thought it was mainly the base model V6 trucks that got those carbon/aluminum shafts. I have not looked at one closely.
I'll have to go out and look at my truck with the 6.5. I think it has a steel shaft but you have me curious now.
 
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