I'm starting this thread as there still seems to be some confusion about these handles, and I haven't seen any decent write ups on the installation of them. We all know how much faster an install goes when you know what you're doing ahead of time instead of figuring it out as you go. As far as current prices and info, I'll try to keep this post updated so you needn't search through pages of posts for a piece of info.
These handles came stock on the 94-02 C3500HD, and 90-02 TopKick/Kodiak. Their metal construction is a lot stronger than the flimsy handles our trucks came with, as well as easier to use than the stock handles on lifted trucks. There are no rear door specific handles, so crew cabs and SUVs will either need dummy lock cylinders, or a filler behind the lock holes.
Price depends largely on where the parts are purchased, but I've put together a list below to show the cheapest prices I was able to find, and where at. Once you know what you're doing, install shouldn't take longer than an hour for two handles.
Parts list hijacked from ChrisAU's thread and reorganized.
Handles
#15619624 LH
#15619625 RH
These are the rods from the handle to the latch. The one that opens the door. (handle/latch)
#15647187 LH
#15647188 RH
These rods are the ones that go from the lock cylinder to the door latch. (lock/latch)
#15558837
#15558838
Lock pawl
#15619622 LH
#15619623 RH
Clip
#20633148 (x2)
The rear handles only require handle/latch rods #15647187 and #15647188.
Rear handles do NOT need the lock/latch rods, lock pawls, or clips.
Pricing: ChrisAU quoted $233 plus shipping. After the RockAuto discount, the list here comes to $92.85 plus shipping on a two door, or $159.05 plus shipping on a four door. And that's with all new parts.
Driver side handle - RockAuto - $22.79
Driver side handle/latch rod #15647187 - GMPartsDirect - $19.37
Driver side lock/latch rod #15558837 - GMPartsGiant - $3.65
Driver side pawl #15619622 - GMPartsDirect - $5.94
Passenger side handle - RockAuto - $22.79
Passenger side handle/latch rod #15647188 - GMPartsGiant - $3.53
Passenger side lock/latch rod #15558838 - GMPartsGiant - $3.36
Passenger side pawl #15619623 - GMPartsDirect - $6.96
Retainer/clip #20633148 - GMPartsDirect - $3.37
Don't forget,
GMT400 members get a 5% discount from RockAuto.
GMPartsDirect does not keep these specific parts in stock. They order them direct from GM to themselves, then ship to you, so shipping isn't terribly fast. I ordered my parts March 5th, GMPD got them and shipped them UPS on the 13th, and they were at my door the next day.
RockAuto part number GM1310177 and GM1311177 handles vary in price and shipping. Last week they were $22.79, this week they're $21.89. A few months ago they were higher, so price appears to be going down. But if they go back up, there are alternatives.
Driver side handle - ebay - $29.99 - Free Shipping
Passenger side handle - ebay - $29.95 - Free Shipping
About the locks: The Top kick handles essentially have the left lock cylinder on the right, and the right lock cylinder on the left. If you're doing both handles at the same time, you can simply swap each lock cylinder to the other side. If you're only doing one handle at a time, you can instead use the new left lock pawl on the right, and the right lock pawl on the left. The end result and function will be the same either way. If you're buying new parts and aren't paying attention to the part number on the pawl you use, you likely wouldn't even notice this. However if you're using a used handle and are wondering why the lock pawl you removed from the old cylinder is facing the wrong direction when you install it on your cylinder, that would be why. Easy fix, nothing to worry about. On the standard GMT400 handles, the lock cylinder can be released from the handle with a flat head screw driver. On the HD handles, you need to take the handle apart in order to remove the cylinder. To do this there are four screws on the backside of the handle, two on each end. They might be hiding under the foam seal.
Now, for the install. I'll assume you either know how to remove your door panels, or can use the resources on this forum to find info on doing so. First, if you're like me you'll worry how you're going to get back the parts you drop in your door. Not to worry, there's easy access at the bottom of the inner door skin protected by a thin layer of plastic. It's plenty big enough to stuff your arm into and reach all the way down in the door to grab anything you may drop through the process. You should be starting with your door panel removed, and the window UP. I'm using the passenger side as the example here since my driver side was already done.
First, remove the two 10mm screws holding the handle on. The forward screw is not perfectly inline with the access hole, so be careful.
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You'll probably want to go ahead and remove the three T30 torx screws holding the latch on. It'll make getting the handle off a bit easier now, as well as connecting and disconnecting the rods for the lock later on.
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Now you should be able to lift the handle up and out of the door from the outside, and rotate it down so it's hanging from the rods. Using your key to turn the lock may make this a bit easier. If you break the factory handles getting them out, don't worry. They suck anyway and were likely already cracked.
Now pry up on the tab, and slide the metal retaining clip away from the handle to release the handle/latch rod from the handle. The rod should then simply pull up and outof the latch.
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The lock/latch rod uses the same metal retaining clip. I found it easier to release the tab on this one with a phillips head screw driver from the other side. Again, slide clip away from the handle for it to release the rod.
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Pull the latch up some for better access through the door handle hole. Repeat the above process to release the rod from the latch. If you destroyed the other two metal clips taking them off, make SURE you don't destroy this one as you'll need to reuse it.
To remove the current lock pawl from your cylinder, pry the tab up, then push the clip up with a screw driver so the hole lines up, then lift it off of the lock cylinder. Make SURE you keep this clip. Once off, bend the tab back down on the clip so it's ready for reuse later.
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A flat head works well to release the lock cylinder from the handle.
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Now pop the cylinder into the new handle, and install the new pawl using the factory clip. Now you can go ahead and put the plastic clip on the lock pawl.
(Yours will likely be orange. I reused an extra black clip that came with a used handle.)
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Install the new lock/latch rod using the factory using the factory metal clip as shown, and make sure you've got the correct handle/latch rod. Then screw the latch back onto the door.
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I found the handle easier to install with the handle/latch rod already installed on the handle, since you only need insert the bottom into the correct hole on the latch.
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Move the assembled handle into place, insert the handle/latch rod into the hole, and attach the lock/latch rod to the pawl with the plastic clip. Push the handle into the hole, and thread the first screw in by hand. Once it's in, look through the access hole to and line up the handle, then put the second screw in, tighten, then tighten the first.
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Now admire your work, close the door, open it, close it again and check to make sure the key lock is functioning properly. Reinstall your door panel and get started on the other side.
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The handles fit barn doors, but none of the rods do and the lock pawls are different. If you have power locks, you can bypass the key lock and reconnect the power lock with your own rod (I made my rod from the handle of a 1 gallon bucket I had) You may be able to instead just connect the lock cylinder, but this is something I haven't tried. I will go into more details once mine is finalized.
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