Timing cover 97 vortec

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badco

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Timing cover off old sbc fits just fine on vortec. Two bolts are not drilled but have the boss cast in it so not a issue if you want to drill them or use some silicone. I have drilled 4 or 5 so far and left a couple without drilling and never leaked.

Edit..... wouldn't use one that didn't have a crank sensor in it unless using a external crank trigger or going carb.
 

Ricky8680

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Holley makes a nice metal timing cover for vortecs. It's reusable and looks a hell of a lot nicer. But it costs some $60 iirc
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Also,that is a minty piece there bud ,that price ain't too minty tho lol
 

Erik the Awful

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You can install the earlier cover on a Vortec, but only if you're not using the reluctor wheel. The bottom of the Vortec cover is larger diameter to clear the reluctor. You can reuse the plastic Vortec cover. I just put a dab of RTV in the corners where the seal tries to come loose.
View media item 32349View media item 32350
 

jaywestfall

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Holley makes a nice metal timing cover for vortecs. It's reusable and looks a hell of a lot nicer. But it costs some $60 iirc
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It's a great piece, and I got ARP stainless bolts and the Felpro gasket kit, too. New L31 going in before December!
 

Ricky8680

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Hmmm..we'll have to see boys,might just wait another pay or two and get the holley piece and do it up.

Anybody else got any suggestions? Trucks my daily (use it to carry my toolboxes to / from work (machinist ftw)) but I'd like it to have a little more pep for sure. So far all I've done:
Regular maintenance (all suspension bushings/ front end rebuild )
Transgo simple shift kit+boost valve+vet servo+separator plate
Aem 50-1000 fuel pump
Shackle flip
2500 front calipers
285's on 18's

Kinda thinking of that alternator swap from the nba trucks (cheapy junkyard mod)
S-10 converter maybe?

Got some old (86 iirc?) corvette headers I'm gonna try to shoehorn in once I drop the front diff,if they will fit pointing the exhaust down through the frame rails(gotta weld in some o2 bungs,gonna cut em Monday on lunch break)

Oh,also,ford crown vic fan w/ lower rad temp sensor & autocoolguy controller

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Nad_Yvalhosert

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"Ditching the front axle to run the extra large oil filters"
"Got some old (86 iirc?) corvette headers I'm gonna try to shoehorn in once I drop the front diff,if they will fit pointing the exhaust down through the frame rails"

So, you're removing the 4x4 capability of your daily driver... Why?
Is it a weight issue? A "stripped of 4x4 parts" truck is still heavier than a 2wd.
Are you gonna leave the t-case?

Exhaust is going to go "through" the actual frame rails? The front half of the frame is fully boxed. Or do you mean it'll go parallel to the frame? Or under?

You're gonna remove the front differential just to use a different oil filter?
Or to use those headers? Will the pipe routing clear the LCA frame mounts?
Do you live in an emissions testing state? I bought a set of stainless shorties from Ebay that bolt to the OE headpipe and dont require ANY modification. Much easier than reinventing the frame, exhaust routing, o2 sensor location and extending the wiring
 
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Ricky8680

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"Ditching the front axle to run the extra large oil filters"
"Got some old (86 iirc?) corvette headers I'm gonna try to shoehorn in once I drop the front diff,if they will fit pointing the exhaust down through the frame rails"

So, you're removing the 4x4 capability of your daily driver... Why?
Is it a weight issue? A "stripped of 4x4 parts" truck is still heavier than a 2wd.
Are you gonna leave the t-case?

Exhaust is going to go "through" the actual frame rails? The front half of the frame is fully boxed. Or do you mean it'll go parallel to the frame? Or under?

You're gonna remove the front differential just to use a different oil filter?
Or to use those headers? Will the pipe routing clear the LCA frame mounts?
Do you live in an emissions testing state? I bought a set of stainless shorties from Ebay that bolt to the OE headpipe and dont require ANY modification. Much easier than reinventing the frame, exhaust routing, o2 sensor location and extending the wiring
Gonna ditch the the axle bc A: its blown any and all seals it has B:the actuator doesn't work & C: my cvs are shot so I'm actually not running cvs,just the lil stubbies to hold the hubs together

The headers i mean,point downward (as they do) from the engine,in-between the front frame rails and rout back to my exhaust pipes,and mostly bc I got them for 15$ and it's a "why not" kinda thing

Oh,and on the oil filter: my cooler lines are leaking like crazy,so I'm just gonna ditch them and run the old school 2 qt filters (the truck never really sees HARD use)
 
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badco

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If your ditching the front dif you have to run a brace rail to rail and under mounts. Those headers kill torque and not worth doing imo. Long tubes with 1 5/8 primary 3" collector are cheap and at least make some power and tq. I have run the normal 51061 wix with no cooler and no lift for about 10yr and never had it hit the driveline and im rough af on it in mud and 4wheelin in general
 
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