The Stupid Lowered Questions Thread

[618 Syndicate]

So another question for lowering a 4x4. As mention before to achieve a 4" drop in rear, a drop hanger and shackle are required. Ive search for several hrs and have had no luck finding drop hangers for a 4x4 "k" series. Would a 2wd drop hanger work on the 4x4 frame?

As long as the leaf springs are the same, I'd imagine they would. Best bet is probably to ask Belltech or whoever.

 

[Amsterdamned96]

I just made thread with this very question; Is there a 4/6" drop kit for 4wd/K series pickup trucks that doesn't require a c-notch?

 

[QLONA]

I just made thread with this very question; Is there a 4/6" drop kit for 4wd/K series pickup trucks that doesn't require a c-notch?

I was told by LOWBOY motorsport that the lowest you can go while retaining 4x4 is a 3/5 without running into any issues. No need to notch

 

[sewlow]

Not a 4x4 guy.
I know that there were 4 different leaf spring variations between C1500 & K3500.
Do the C1500's & the K1500's use the same rear leafs? From what I can find, the various spring co.'s are listing their specific in-house part numbers as cross-referencing between 2 wheel & 4 wheel.
A stock 2wheel C1500 sits lower than a stock K1500 by a little better than 3".
So where does the extra height come from?
Shorter shackles? Something to do with the frame design?
I know that K spring hangars are different. They mount the eye just about 3/4" lower on the frame than a C's.
SUV hangars are different yet. That IS because of frame differences.
C's got 235/75-15's. The K's, 265/75-16's. Little better than 1.5" taller. But those tires only gain 3/4" of height, plus the different hangars for a total of a 1.5" gain overall.
Is this why L/B Motorsport advised no more than a 5" drop on a K?
A 2 wheel drive hangar would actually equal 2.75" drop on a K.
Just curious. because...a 5" drop on a C is pretty hard to achieve.
Not saying it can't be done, but anything more than a 4" drop requires a notch. ...and a flip.
It's the only possible progression from a 4" drop due to the fact that simply flipping the diff is an automatic 6" lower.
Lowering the rear of a C, 1", 2", 3", 4", 6", 7", 8" are all pretty straight forward. It's that 5" that's the odd one to get to.
I'd like to see how they got to that drop.
Just the fact that the truck's a 4x, with whatever differences, would dropping it 5" get it to the same height as a C with a 4" drop?

 

[Alteca]

I could be wrong but I believe the k series has a lift block under the spring from factory while a c series does not hence the k series being taller. A c1500 can run a 4” drop with no c notch, so a k1500 being taller should be able to run a 5-6” drop without needing a notch.

 

[fancyTBI]

Anyone run a DJM 5” drop up front and a Belltech 7” kit in the rear? I like the DJM spindles but not the rear kit. The Belltech rear kit seems better to me. Looking for input. I assume it would be fine.

 

[95burban]

Anyone run a DJM 5” drop up front and a Belltech 7” kit in the rear? I like the DJM spindles but not the rear kit. The Belltech rear kit seems better to me. Looking for input. I assume it would be fine.

It will work perfect

 

[fancyTBI]

@95burban thanks.

 

[sewlow]

The B/T kit is was originally designed for a 6" drop.
The pinion angle is built-in for that.
Going 7" requires using a drop shackle set at the 1" position.
This MAY cause a prob with the angle.
That would involve utilizing a shim to correct it. With that, a longer-head leaf spring centering bolt is required. Some kits come with those. Some don't. Easy enough to make your own.
The DJM upper plate allows for pinion angle adjustment. Saves a bunch of work.
The reason I didn't originally purchase that kit is because I was somewhat leery of of the design in consideration of future power increases. In my mind I could picture the diff housing rotating just enough to throw a wrench into the works.
I'm not skeered of the skinny pedal. Like my truck to not be, too.
That being said, many have used the DJM flip with no ill effect. Not aware of any complaints here on the forum over the years of any such occurrences.
#paranoidofbreakageatinopportunetimes

 

[fancyTBI]

The B/T kit is was originally designed for a 6" drop.
The pinion angle is built-in for that.
Going 7" requires using a drop shackle set at the 1" position.
This MAY cause a prob with the angle.
That would involve utilizing a shim to correct it. With that, a longer-head leaf spring centering bolt is required. Some kits come with those. Some don't. Easy enough to make your own.
The DJM upper plate allows for pinion angle adjustment. Saves a bunch of work.
The reason I didn't originally purchase that kit is because I was somewhat leery of of the design in consideration of future power increases. In my mind I could picture the diff housing rotating just enough to throw a wrench into the works.
I'm not skeered of the skinny pedal. Like my truck to not be, too.
That being said, many have used the DJM flip with no ill effect. Not aware of any complaints here on the forum over the years of any such occurrences.
#paranoidofbreakageatinopportunetimes

I hear you there with the DJM kit, I’ve seen some discussion about the design and I do have plans for more power later on. I want something strong and can take an occasional romping. I have the B/T shim kit in my cart as well. For this I have the following planned
DJM:
- 3” spindle
- 2” coil
B/T:
- 7” flip kit
- pinion angle shims
- upper shock relocation brackets
Reklez Fabrication
- under bed weld in C notch

I’m still deciding on shocks, still have a lot of reading do do there.