The Stupid Lowered Questions Thread

[Aarong23]

Thought about it more and have gotten over the price. I really underestimated the hard part prices in my build. Knew this stuff wasn’t cheap but I was guessing that was cuz of labor cost and figured I’d be saving all that doing it myself and was surprised how much the parts actually are. Found a Moog front end rebuild kit for $396, center link be another $70, pitman an idler arm be another $150 if I needed it, not sure on idler bracket. Pretty sure all that has lifetime guarantee. It would be stupid to put urethane bushings on old sloppy parts. I still am curious what other brands are out there with good warranties.

I feel your pain on the prices, but I'd offer that you just bite the bullet and go for the moog stuff. It sucks to pay up front, but they will hold up well. I've seen many a tie rod, ball joint, etc. fail sooner than it should because quality. I've always used moog stuff and never had an issue. I have a stockpile of parts I've accumulated for a spring time suspension rebuild.

 

[sewlow]

I feel your pain on the prices,

I've found that you get what you pay for, though.
For instance, a set of $60.00 rotors last me about 8 months till they're so warped that they can't be turned to true them up.
I'll get 5 years out of a set of the $200.00 rotors. Able to get them turned 2x during that time.
I would of spent about $450.00 replacing the cheap ones over that same period.

 

[e-fin]

Thanks for the advice. Yeah I understand. I now realize how far I underestimated these costs. I wasn’t trying to do it on the cheap. Since box is gonna be off I already had replacing the fuel sending unit in mind and maybe fuel pump and filler hose. Initially I was shooting for a 3k budget on drop and 20 inch wheels. Be close on that end maybe just under but I’ve now come to realization I underestimated bye as much as 25 percent the un thought of “important” stuff. Not a huge deal time wise anyways cuz I won’t be driving this truck till mid April earliest realistically. We usually get our heaviest snow storms middle to late March.

 

[jgreen16]

I'll get 5 years out of a set of the $200.00 rotors. Able to get them turned 2x during that time.

I've already purchased all of my front end rebuild components, and the lowering kit. Next up will be the brakes, and I agree with buying quality stuff once instead of cheap stuff multiple times. What rotors do you use?

 

[HotWheelsBurban]

Heres an idea for heights

You must be registered for see images attach

That's the 98 Burb brochure, right?
Interesting that they used a pewter one in the pics. Looks like the 4x4 Burb my drummer friend had( he lived in Alpine). He could haul the band( himself and 3 other guys) and most of their gear in it. Towed a small trailer for the rest of the stuff. Took 2 days to get to Houston area for gigs; Alpine to Austin first day, then on to H town the next. He loved that Burb enough that I think his wife was a little jealous......

 

[SUBURBAN5]

That's the 98 Burb brochure, right?
Interesting that they used a pewter one in the pics. Looks like the 4x4 Burb my drummer friend had( he lived in Alpine). He could haul the band( himself and 3 other guys) and most of their gear in it. Towed a small trailer for the rest of the stuff. Took 2 days to get to Houston area for gigs; Alpine to Austin first day, then on to H town the next. He loved that Burb enough that I think his wife was a little jealous......

Lol. I can relate. Anytime I touch my burb my wife reminds me what all I havent done around the house lol

 

[sewlow]

I've already purchased all of my front end rebuild components, and the lowering kit. Next up will be the brakes, and I agree with buying quality stuff once instead of cheap stuff multiple times. What rotors do you use?

I use these guy's, 'E-Line'. Drilled & slotted.
https://www.r1concepts.com/detail_c...nt+Drilled_and_Slotted_Rotor+silver+Ceramic++
They have a higher nickel content than OEM.
OEM & jobber rotors are all el-cheapo off-shore crap nowadays.
Don't really need the drilled versions for a daily.
Some say that a drilled rotor is prone to cracking around the holes, but I didn't find that.
...and that's after 5 years of 'me' driving. (!)
The slots are nice because they are the indicator of wear. They can be turned multiple times, but once the slots are gone, that's when the rotors need replacing.
They have drums with the same metallurgy.

I like the ceramic pads. Takes a block or 2 for them to get up to temp. The first couple of stops on a cold day, if you're not ready for it, can have ya sucking wind a bit. After that, way shorter stop distances than the stockers.
I probably took 10'-12' off of a 60mph panic stop with this combo, even before the NBS M/C swap.
The ceramics are also low-dust.
They have more aggressive pads too, if you like.

 

[jgreen16]

I use these guy's, 'E-Line'. Drilled & slotted.
https://www.r1concepts.com/detail_c...nt+Drilled_and_Slotted_Rotor+silver+Ceramic++

Thank you very much for the reply. I saw these on Amazon and was curious as to how they were, so it's nice to know that they are of good quality. Pricing is good too for the kits with ceramic pads.

One curiosity though, is that they seem to have different part numbers for the '97 trucks that you linked to, and the '93 trucks that I have been using during my research. I thought that after the '92 model year, when they went to the 1.25 inch rotors, they would all be the same through the end of the OBS trucks in '98.

My truck is a '90, but I went with the McGaughy's lowering kit with spindles for the 1.25 rotors.

 

[10mm Nut]

One curiosity though, is that they seem to have different part numbers for the '97 trucks that you linked to, and the '93 trucks that I have been using during my research. I thought that after the '92 model year, when they went to the 1.25 inch rotors, they would all be the same through the end of the OBS trucks in '98.

Later rotors have the tone ring on the backside for the ABS brakes.

 

[jgreen16]

Later rotors have the tone ring on the backside for the ABS brakes.

Thanks! It sounds like I should stick with the '93 part numbers.