The Stupid Lowered Questions Thread

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HotWheelsBurban

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New to bushing replacement.

What are the differences/opinions on stock rubber vs polyurethane?

Ride vs longevity vs installation difficulty etc

Really need to redo the bushings on my K2500 Burb, so figured I'd ask and get myself learned from folks that probably know a lot more than me.
Are the control arm bushings on your Burb rubber or the greasable steel ones?
Not sure what the 400 series 3/4 & 1 ton trucks have, but I know my square Burb (90 GMC R2500) had the steel ones. In 10 years of working on that truck, I learned how to get to all 8 of them,plus all the front end linkages and ball joints, without too many contortions. When they finally got worn out, dad and I went ahead and did the complete control arms. We'd already done the lower ball joints and all the tie rods the year before, and the pitman arm and idler arm were still good too.
One of the things my 99 Burb needs badly is the upper control arm bushings. The ball joints are only 2 years old, and lifetime warranty MOOG, but it'll be a lot simpler to do the whole arm. I'll keep the ball joints for spares. Got a complete set of new linkage parts from a guy on the forum who'd sold his truck and found them in the garage. So of course that's not what wears out LOL!
 

Erik the Awful

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Suspension components polyurethane to help slightly with handling. For body new rubber bushing for comfort and ride.
I'll second that. If you use poly, be sure and grease them.

I've also seen where people have taken old rubber bushings, burned the rubber out, bought a twenty dollar bucket of two-part urethane, and poured their own bushings, but as cheap as I am, I'm not inclined to put up with that mess.
 

SUBURBAN5

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I'll second that. If you use poly, be sure and grease them.

I've also seen where people have taken old rubber bushings, burned the rubber out, bought a twenty dollar bucket of two-part urethane, and poured their own bushings, but as cheap as I am, I'm not inclined to put up with that mess.

Same here. It sounds messy
 

Frank Enstein

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I vote for polyurethane. Add grease fittings and get a tube of Super Lube grease ( https://www.summitracing.com/parts/upi-3008 ) and a new grease gun. Lube liberally and 1 pump per bushing twice a year. Make sure you wear gloves. That stuff is a little tough to wash off your hands. It's supposed to be good for ball joints and such but I haven't tried it. Ask me in 5 years and I'll let you know. :cool:
 

Dravec

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Thanks for the replies y'all. Looks like I'm gonna go with the Energy polyurethane front kit. I can get the complete Energy kit for $74 compared to $115 for all of the standard rubber bushings.
 

90lsx

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I have used the search button and haven't been able to find my answer so here it goes.

How far does the belltech drop spindle push the wheel out?

Edited, think I found it. Seems to be 1/2" each side.
 
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Soflanick911

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a truck i just acquired has a DJM lowering control arm (2") and a 2" lowering spring. Which comes in their 4/6 kit.

would a 3 inch lowering spring work to replace the 2" for a 5" drop?

or would it open up a can of worms?
 

Ryhno

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How are y’all doing a front 6 inch drop?I have a 94 ecsb step side that I have 3” DJM lower control arms on and a 2” DJM spring, I installed a 3” DJM spring but my tie rods are hitting the frame on the passenger side?
 

Aarong23

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How are y’all doing a front 6 inch drop?I have a 94 ecsb step side that I have 3” DJM lower control arms on and a 2” DJM spring, I installed a 3” DJM spring but my tie rods are hitting the frame on the passenger side?
6 inch drop on a static setup is pretty low without adjustability. If you're going that low, you might consider air ride. At least then you can adjust the height.
 
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