Discussion in 'Stock Suspension + Bolt On Kits' started by Mike, Dec 3, 2009.
Mya I’ve chose not to go this route...
What model is your truck? 4x4 2wd 1500 2500 3500?
Take a good look under it and see if anything is bent before you go buying new parts for this. I had a 98 K1500 I bought with a 4" Tuff Country lift, and the same everything was worn out (my first truck). Turned out it had death wobble after a few weeks of driving it. I replaced the ball joints, bushings, and wheel bearings... just to find out it would constantly get knocked out of alignement everytime I went offroad. I noticed the differential drop bracket was broken... and the torsion bar crossmember bent from previous owner. Turns out the frame was cracked on the passenger side engine mount so that everytime I put it in low range and gave it gas the differential would raise CV would explode. I ended up straight axling the truck, THEN noticed the frame was cracked because the fan would hit the shroud... the engine was falling out LMAO.
So take a good look at it first to see if it's worth throwing hundreds of dollars at that IFS. If you have stock upper control arms you can go ahead and order replacements, but the lowers you have to press out the old ball joint and bushings I believe. I would order factory style rubber bushings as they are quiet and last longer than the poly bushings.
Hello I have a 1998 GMC K2500 8 lug I've been trying to level it. currently I have the keys cranked up all the way because I have a big steel bumper and a winch on it witch with the stock suspension I was constantly banging the bumper off obstacles on the trails due to it being so low. I'm mainly looking for advice on how to correct the ball joint angle on the upper control arm I know there are some extended ones on ebay but those are 1000 bucks plus shipping and duty to Canada so not in my price range. I looked for some control arm drop brackets but the only ones I could find were for a like 6 inch lift. Maybe some new torsion bars are in order also as there probably under more stress than there rated for with an extra 300 pounds on the front end. But the main issue I'm looking for advice on is the control arm angle. Thank you
De-crank torsion bar keys to factory ride height. If you need more ground clearance for cheap, get a body lift.
My apologies for the late reply! I have 99 K1500. I will have to go take a peak under someone's truck soon. Steering is cocked off to the side a little bit as well, so its ready for a lot of things. I would I think think everything replaceable should be, if its going to be apart.
I have people to assist with itl and that actually know what they are doing, but I have to get the parts and stuff.
I would rather get quality parts too. Doing it once, doing it right.
Also. Mine rubs something when I put it in 4hi. Bleh. IT was a free truck so its no big deal, but I would like to keep it and put some heart into it. Its a great truck with supposedly a low mileage engine swapped in. 170k on the odometer
Body lifts don’t give you clearance it just raises the body not the frame
Yea and I need the frame higher I've been looking at ball joint spacers to get the arm off the stop and correct the angle but I cant find much information on if they'll just cause more issues than they solved
Oh ok now I see what you mean
Anyone know of any front pre runner style skid plates for the GMT400 K series trucks with a 4-6in lift?
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