The Stupid Lift Questions Thread

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Wheeler

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It's just gonna look 3" taller... and like it needs bigger tires. What are you trying to gain out of the body lift? Are the tires rubbing as is?

Personally I wouldn't do a body lift unless you need more tire clearance and don't want to cut the bumper and fender... you're just going to expose more frame and there will be a 3" gap between the hitch receiver and the bumper. Your running boards will hide most of the frame though.

If more tire clearance is what you're looking for, I have a real trick way to trim the front bumper edge and back of the front fender so that it is almost un-noticeable. I have 305/70/16's on my K2500 and no lift this way.



Mya I’ve chose not to go this route...
 

Calikov

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I have a 4 inch Superlift on my truck. I know so little about it... But. The front end needs rebuiling. Do I need any special arms or brackets or anything for the rebuild? I was looking into like... Upper and lower A arms I think they are called... and bushings, and ball joints and whatnot... but yeah... I have been trying to find info for a while on it :(

What model is your truck? 4x4 2wd 1500 2500 3500?

Take a good look under it and see if anything is bent before you go buying new parts for this. I had a 98 K1500 I bought with a 4" Tuff Country lift, and the same everything was worn out (my first truck). Turned out it had death wobble after a few weeks of driving it. I replaced the ball joints, bushings, and wheel bearings... just to find out it would constantly get knocked out of alignement everytime I went offroad. I noticed the differential drop bracket was broken... and the torsion bar crossmember bent from previous owner. Turns out the frame was cracked on the passenger side engine mount so that everytime I put it in low range and gave it gas the differential would raise CV would explode. I ended up straight axling the truck, THEN noticed the frame was cracked because the fan would hit the shroud... the engine was falling out LMAO.

So take a good look at it first to see if it's worth throwing hundreds of dollars at that IFS. If you have stock upper control arms you can go ahead and order replacements, but the lowers you have to press out the old ball joint and bushings I believe. I would order factory style rubber bushings as they are quiet and last longer than the poly bushings.
 

Deklin Grant

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Hello I have a 1998 GMC K2500 8 lug I've been trying to level it. currently I have the keys cranked up all the way because I have a big steel bumper and a winch on it witch with the stock suspension I was constantly banging the bumper off obstacles on the trails due to it being so low. I'm mainly looking for advice on how to correct the ball joint angle on the upper control arm I know there are some extended ones on ebay but those are 1000 bucks plus shipping and duty to Canada so not in my price range. I looked for some control arm drop brackets but the only ones I could find were for a like 6 inch lift. Maybe some new torsion bars are in order also as there probably under more stress than there rated for with an extra 300 pounds on the front end. But the main issue I'm looking for advice on is the control arm angle. Thank you
 

torhne

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What model is your truck? 4x4 2wd 1500 2500 3500?

Take a good look under it and see if anything is bent before you go buying new parts for this. I had a 98 K1500 I bought with a 4" Tuff Country lift, and the same everything was worn out (my first truck). Turned out it had death wobble after a few weeks of driving it. I replaced the ball joints, bushings, and wheel bearings... just to find out it would constantly get knocked out of alignement everytime I went offroad. I noticed the differential drop bracket was broken... and the torsion bar crossmember bent from previous owner. Turns out the frame was cracked on the passenger side engine mount so that everytime I put it in low range and gave it gas the differential would raise CV would explode. I ended up straight axling the truck, THEN noticed the frame was cracked because the fan would hit the shroud... the engine was falling out LMAO.

So take a good look at it first to see if it's worth throwing hundreds of dollars at that IFS. If you have stock upper control arms you can go ahead and order replacements, but the lowers you have to press out the old ball joint and bushings I believe. I would order factory style rubber bushings as they are quiet and last longer than the poly bushings.

My apologies for the late reply! I have 99 K1500. I will have to go take a peak under someone's truck soon. Steering is cocked off to the side a little bit as well, so its ready for a lot of things. I would I think think everything replaceable should be, if its going to be apart.

I have people to assist with itl and that actually know what they are doing, but I have to get the parts and stuff.

I would rather get quality parts too. Doing it once, doing it right.

Also. Mine rubs something when I put it in 4hi. Bleh. IT was a free truck so its no big deal, but I would like to keep it and put some heart into it. Its a great truck with supposedly a low mileage engine swapped in. 170k on the odometer
 
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Need some help and can t find anything related that helps. I have a 2000 Crew Cab short box K2500, just put a 6" Rough Country lift in and i have a vibration in the rear driveline and looking for some fixes.... Anyone else have this issue. The vibration is from a start to about 25-30mph. All U-joints have been replaced and i have also replaced the steady bearing. Do i shim the rear blocks? Lower the steady bearing? and if so how? or cut the steady bearing cross member out and get a custom 1 piece drive shaft? any help would be great
 
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