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Long as there bucket seat they should be the same bracket/ frame. What makes it different is the plugs having heat or no heat
Best way is to double check the seat. When I went from my driver bucket to a 60/40 the driver side bolted perfect and the connections were the same. I just had to drill holes where the center console was. This was from power set up to power. If it was a manual would of been a different story
You can leave the riveted bracket in place. There are four screws (pointing up) that attach the actuator to the bracket. Easiest way to do it is remove the screws holding the interior metal door panel on and pull it out a little for access.
As far as I know the crew cab and Suburban rear door is the same. Tahoe and Yukon door has the notches for the wheel well, but the others don't. I personally only have experience with Burbs, but there's a bunch of crew cab cats on here that should know.So the bracket is riveted in place? My rivets must've broken...it's just hanging off the door panel and gets in the way of the window when I try to roll it down. I guess I'll have to figure out how to get new rivets in there. Thank you for your response!
One more question: the window regulator failed on my passenger rear door (crew cab K2500), but I cannot find the correct part. Does the crew cab truck like mine share rear doors with the suburban?
So the bracket is riveted in place? My rivets must've broken...it's just hanging off the door panel and gets in the way of the window when I try to roll it down. I guess I'll have to figure out how to get new rivets in there. Thank you for your response!