The Stupid Interior Questions Thread

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Armalite15

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Long as there bucket seat they should be the same bracket/ frame. What makes it different is the plugs having heat or no heat

OK so frame is good either way, my are not heated but do have the lumbar support but I assume that wouldn't affect the bottom. Thanks.
 

SUBURBAN5

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Best way is to double check the seat. When I went from my driver bucket to a 60/40 the driver side bolted perfect and the connections were the same. I just had to drill holes where the center console was. This was from power set up to power. If it was a manual would of been a different story
 

Armalite15

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Best way is to double check the seat. When I went from my driver bucket to a 60/40 the driver side bolted perfect and the connections were the same. I just had to drill holes where the center console was. This was from power set up to power. If it was a manual would of been a different story

Yeah I just want to repair my existing seat if possible, there are tons of 400s around here but hadn't been able to come up with a replacement so far. But since leather and cloth are the same that might help I'm hoping I can find a good bottom strip it to the frame and swap everything over. I wonder since I don't need the tracks just the frame itself if a manual one would work.
 
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SUBURBAN5

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Lol only manual I got is my passenger seat. The cushions and back rest are the same. What makes it different is if it has armrest, back support, and I think headrest meaning all one seat or bottom,back,head, like most 95-99 seats
 

JohnBravo

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I didn't want to post a new thread for this little question someone might know offhand...recently had an issue where my driver window was getting hung up on the door lock actuator (I pulled back the door panel enough to hold the actuator until the window was rolled down, now I don't want to roll it back up until I reattach the actuator), wondering if it's riveted in place or if I could use little screws to secure it back to the door frame. If it's not riveted, would anyone happen to know the correct size of screw to use?
 

east302

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You can leave the riveted bracket in place. There are four screws (pointing up) that attach the actuator to the bracket. Easiest way to do it is remove the screws holding the interior metal door panel on and pull it out a little for access.
 

JohnBravo

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You can leave the riveted bracket in place. There are four screws (pointing up) that attach the actuator to the bracket. Easiest way to do it is remove the screws holding the interior metal door panel on and pull it out a little for access.

So the bracket is riveted in place? My rivets must've broken...it's just hanging off the door panel and gets in the way of the window when I try to roll it down. I guess I'll have to figure out how to get new rivets in there. Thank you for your response!

One more question: the window regulator failed on my passenger rear door (crew cab K2500), but I cannot find the correct part. Does the crew cab truck like mine share rear doors with the suburban?
 

HotWheelsBurban

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So the bracket is riveted in place? My rivets must've broken...it's just hanging off the door panel and gets in the way of the window when I try to roll it down. I guess I'll have to figure out how to get new rivets in there. Thank you for your response!

One more question: the window regulator failed on my passenger rear door (crew cab K2500), but I cannot find the correct part. Does the crew cab truck like mine share rear doors with the suburban?
As far as I know the crew cab and Suburban rear door is the same. Tahoe and Yukon door has the notches for the wheel well, but the others don't. I personally only have experience with Burbs, but there's a bunch of crew cab cats on here that should know.
 

east302

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So the bracket is riveted in place? My rivets must've broken...it's just hanging off the door panel and gets in the way of the window when I try to roll it down. I guess I'll have to figure out how to get new rivets in there. Thank you for your response!

It was riveted at the factory, but a lot of times they are drilled out when the actuator is replaced and nuts/bolts used instead. A lock washer would probably be needed as they can sometimes get loose and back out.
 
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