The Stupid Engine Questions Thread

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GoToGuy

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If thats a crack across the ribs. I would make that a priority replacement. The worst case scenario is comes apart at highway or little higher. Metal parts 2200 rpm flying speed goinggod knows where. For me it on the way home with thenew pulley on the seat next me. It would be new belt, new power steer hoses, fan shroud, radiator, upper coolant hose, both oil cooler hoses. Like my wife sez " your bread allways falls butter side down, in the only dog fur on the floor, and cat walks over and sits on it"...
 

Gomer989

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New '91 4.3 K1500 owner here. Looking for some help identifying what might be cut/disconnected/missing from mounting brackets in the following photos. Any help is appreciated!

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Schurkey

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Someone gutted the AIR pump and some--not all--of the plumbing.

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Another destroyed section of AIR system plumbing.

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Missing hose for charcoal canister.

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Loom bracket for spark plug wire loom.

Obviously, someone should have their fingers broken with their own wrenches. This is high-school level vandalism as far as I'm concerned.


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No idea.
 

Schurkey

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Thinking about buying one of these and restoring my 92K 1500. But I can’t find any information on the company does anybody hear have any experience with this company or know anything about these https://spprecision.com/products/high-performance-chevy-350-crate-engine.html
1. That's not a "restoration" engine. It's modified.
2. I'm deeply suspicious of that company. The description is written to be impressive, but what they're actually doing is standard industry practice--nothing more, except maybe the "dyno test".
3. They don't seem to know what cylinder heads they're installing. More than once they claim to install heads with 76cc combustion chambers, but TBI heads have ~65cc chambers.
4. The "regular" price is crazy high, the "discount" price is nothing special.
5. Before you buy, get their warranty terms in writing. Does the engine have to be "professionally" installed? Who pays what if the "new" engine fails? What rate-per-hour do they pay? What does your shop actually charge? How many hours do they allow? What does your shop actually allow? Who pays the freight to ship the failed engine back to them? Do they pay for the oil, filter, coolant, valve cover and intake gaskets, etc. that's lost changing the failed engine for the replacement?
 

Txlock

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1. That's not a "restoration" engine. It's modified.
2. I'm deeply suspicious of that company. The description is written to be impressive, but what they're actually doing is standard industry practice--nothing more, except maybe the "dyno test".
3. They don't seem to know what cylinder heads they're installing. More than once they claim to install heads with 76cc combustion chambers, but TBI heads have ~65cc chambers.
4. The "regular" price is crazy high, the "discount" price is nothing special.
5. Before you buy, get their warranty terms in writing. Does the engine have to be "professionally" installed? Who pays what if the "new" engine fails? What rate-per-hour do they pay? What does your shop actually charge? How many hours do they allow? What does your shop actually allow? Who pays the freight to ship the failed engine back to them? Do they pay for the oil, filter, coolant, valve cover and intake gaskets, etc. that's lost changing the failed engine for the replacement?
Maybe restore is a strong word. I just love this truck so piece by piece I’m fixing it up. I chose this motor purely based on the price because I’m still kind of broke and I desperately need the extra horsepower to pull a trailer and do work at the deer lease. As far as installation I don’t know, I was planning on doing it all myself. I can pull this truck apart and put it back together no problem but all the technical stuff in the motor building I don’t understand at all. That’s my concern because I can’t find any information on this company. But there’s a guy that answers the phone every time I call that always answers questions. I don’t know that that makes me feel good enough to take the risk or not. So I greatly appreciate the insight.
 

Txlock

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Maybe restore is a strong word. I just love this truck so piece by piece I’m fixing it up. I chose this motor purely based on the price because I’m still kind of broke and I desperately need the extra horsepower to pull a trailer and do work at the deer lease. As far as installation I don’t know, I was planning on doing it all myself. I can pull this truck apart and put it back together no problem but all the technical stuff in the motor building I don’t understand at all. That’s my concern because I can’t find any information on this company. But there’s a guy that answers the phone every time I call that always answers questions. I don’t know that that makes me feel good enough to take the risk or not. So I greatly appreciate the insight.
If anybody has any recommendations of a place I can get a long block that is producing around 300 hp and 370 foot pounds of torque that can be a pretty much stock replacement for all the rest. I don’t want to really have to modify anything. I am absolutely open to suggestions.
 

Erik the Awful

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300/370 is well above what your TBI is currently supporting. You'll have to re-tune.

If you're short on cash, start with asking, "Why do I need to replace my engine?"

Do you currently have a 350? If so, it should be up to pulling any weight your chassis can handle. If it doesn't have the power, let's start troubleshooting.
 

e-fin

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Cap and rotor suggestions. 5.7 C2500 just developed a miss momentarily and service engine light is now on after yesterday’s really rainy day. Planning on basic tune up and have paid for Delcoe in past on my 4.3 and still had same issues missing on really wet days after a year or so. Is there a better cap cuz not sure why I pay extra for one that supposed to be good? Or is it we have to take these damn things off constantly and clean em? Know this is the Achilles heal of the system is there anything that can be done?
 

AK49BWL

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Make sure your cam offset is as close to ZERO as possible. I fought this issue for 3 years on my truck, didn't matter what cap I put on the thing, it still missed like a blind person playing basketball when humid or wet out. Cam offset was only -4 degrees, I put it dead on 0, 0.1... I haven't had a serious misfire since. You'll need a scanner that can read the cam offset, that's it.

I would recommend a cap with brass terminals rather than the aluminum junk Delco puts out tho.
 
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