The Stupid Engine Questions Thread

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HotWheelsBurban

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Not being a jerk here but you ask for help and neglect to mention new parts or what you do know about the problem. Then you say that you know that. How are we (the forum) able to help you if you know everything and keep us in the dark?
If the belt isn't in the grooves like it should be it'll come off the pulley. On the serpentine belt you really need to check the fit on each pulley
 

HotWheelsBurban

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Personally I use regular conventional oil in both of my trucks (and both cars!). I've considered swapping to synthetic a few times, but my trucks engines have never been rebuilt and they still run great and are very clean under the valve covers. If conventional was good enough for GM at the factory, it's good enough for me! I think as long as you change it frequently enough you'll never have issues.
Quaker State high mileage red label 10w30 synthetic blend, just made 179,000 on my 99 5.7 vortec
 

HotWheelsBurban

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And 2x on changing it as recommended. I was taught 3000 miles, try to do it at least every 4000 miles
 

HotWheelsBurban

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is this normal on a power steering pump pulley?
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I think the pump needs to be replaced because its wining and shaking, but the pulley looks questionable too
No it's just where the factory seam is. As long as there are no burrs you're good. My truck has this too
 

HotWheelsBurban

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Like I said lol, all day easily. For me anyway.
Yes gm recommends replacing the timing cover for the vortec engine. It's plastic and may be slightly warped from engine heat. The one l replaced in '07 on the old truck was $58 from Chevy dealership, they may be cheaper now. To pull the cover out l had to drop the oil pan which is a major PITA
 

HotWheelsBurban

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Something in my belt drive whines terribly with the rpms. It is quite loud and annoying. I thought it was the belt tensioner pulley because it was a little loose, replaced...same noise. Replaced the alternator recently too and the noise is still there. What could it be? It really seems to be coming from the alternator, it's a NAPA reman.
Thanks guys for the help. I appreciate it.
Did you replace the idler pulley?
 

HotWheelsBurban

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I have a friend with a 99 Tahoe, 5.7, that will not start, he's selling it to me for $500 if I decide to buy it. The problem is the Passlock system. Engine will actually crank and momentarily start/sputter. Fuel pressure is fine, fuel pump has a few thousand miles on it (he replaced it thinking this was the problem before he discovered the Passlock demon was the culprit.

Doing the key relearn doesn't work anymore.

Truck has 197K miles on it, oil is clean, maintenance has been otherwise been kept up with.

Trans was replaced new at 140K, rear end rebuild with new ring/pinion at about 180K.

I'm about to buy this thing but need some assurance from someone that this Passlock bullshit can be defeated. He's already had "a friend" try the resistor thing but that didn't work, but there's no guarantee he knew which resistor value to get. He may have just used "what his other buddy" used.
I had this happen to me last summer. 99 Burb 5.7 vortec; the Passlock box under the middle of the dashboard is probably toast(20 year old electronics) but it is possible to get the Passlock system deactivated thru the main computer. I took mine to a local speed shop that mainly does LS's and they used some of the tuning programs to delete the Passlock. Cost me $250 but worth it for my truck to always start! Had fixed everything else but it got like the one you're looking at, but the computer program delete did the trick. Good luck!
 
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