The Stupid Engine Questions Thread

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BigMyke

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Since it is indeed the knock sensor, maybe the sensor is not leaking since it is mounted with the engine coolant passage. I don't seem to have coolant leaks. I'm trying to figure out where the oil is leaking.

Thank you for confirming the sensor!
 

HotWheelsBurban

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I believe the reason the window will only go down so far on a tahoe is due to the door shape in regards to the fender. It gets too narrow for the window to fit in the lower part of the door. If thats not right I'm sure someone will correct me.
That sounds right, suburban second door windows go all the way down, and these doors are straight sided.
 

HotWheelsBurban

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Well today has proven to be rather unsuccessful, I have only been able to narrow it down to a guaranteed front end leak. Probably somewhere between water pump and radiator. Seems to be near where the plastic tanks meet the aluminum. From what I remember about replacing the radiator it requires disassembling most of the front end, but if it does turn out to be the radiator (which would be so much more convenient than intake gaskets) it will give me an excuse to get an alumarad like this http://alumarad.com/chevy-tahoe-new-all-aluminum-radiator-95-96-05.html or some other full aluminum radiator.
The radiator on these is aluminum core with plastic tanks. There are gaskets between the tanks and the core that shrink with age, and if you've had much of a front impact that also makes them leak. And Chevys do eat water pumps. Replaced the one on my 99 vortec 5.7 this time last year, was the original one with 165,000 on it. The radiator isn't too hard to replace, l could've done it on my truck 2 years ago but didn't have the time. The shop that did the job only had the truck a couple of hours. Most things on these trucks are fairly easy to fix....good luck with your truck
 

HotWheelsBurban

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It's a pretty good place to start if they haven't been replaced in a while
Another good reason to replace the cap and rotor: they can be damaged that you can't see and it can make a misfire. My truck had this problem and it ended up ruining the flywheel and busting the starter because it was trying to fire 2 cylinders at once. If you can get them, go for a cap with brass contacts instead of the aluminum ones, it will last a lot longer
 

HotWheelsBurban

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Hello, on a 2wd GMT 400 with a v-8 you can pull the oil pan by only pulling the torque convertor cover and the exhaust crossover pipe, the engine does not have to unbolted from its mounts at all. I have pulled the pan off of several of these truck's, 1500-3500 it doesn't matter.
Don't know about a 95 but on my old 99 Burb l had to pull the motor mount bolts out and jack the motor up ,just a couple of inches. The pan has a windage tray in it and there's a baffle plate mounted on the main bearing caps. These will get tangled up with each other if there's not enough clearance. (Ask me how I know! )And it was a 2wd. There's just not a lot of room down there...
 

HotWheelsBurban

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My '99 has 168k miles on it and is running great except for oil consumption. I'm having to add a quart every 1k miles or so. The exhaust doesn't seem to be black or out of the ordinary. Thoughts?
Check out the pcv valve, if they are bad they can suck oil out of the crankcase
 

HotWheelsBurban

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I'm not the most experienced in this, but the high idle might be the idle air control valve, miss might be the distributor. Like I said, I've never had an issue with one of these trucks like that (knock on wood lol) but that might give you somewhere to start.

Sent from my Vortec powered HTC One M8
On vortec 's if you replace the idle air control valve also replace the throttle position sensor unless it was just replaced. They often go out together
 
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