The Stupid Electronics Questions Thread

2001ZR2

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I'd get the Kicker KSC41004 4x10s. The entire Kicker KS series sound great and are made with real rubber surrounds so they'll hold up reasonably well over time.

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_206KSC4100/Kicker-44KSC41004.html

I thought I had the 6x9's but I take they left in the last great garage purge when my son dropped one. I was looking at a pair of Kenwood KFC-415 speakers but the dome design is a semi dome and max rms aren't as much as the Kickers. I am considering an amp and subwoofer in the future. The Kenwoods can be had for about $23 bucks less on Amazon
 

df2x4

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I thought I had the 6x9's but I take they left in the last great garage purge when my son dropped one. I was looking at a pair of Kenwood KFC-415 speakers but the dome design is a semi dome and max rms aren't as much as the Kickers. I am considering an amp and subwoofer in the future. The Kenwoods can be had for about $23 bucks less on Amazon

I'd pay the extra money for the Kickers. Mainly due to the real rubber surrounds I mentioned earlier. The Kenwoods use a foam rubber that doesn't stand up to heat and the elements nearly as well.
 

Robert P

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If the donor vehicle was a Tahoe/Suburban, it might be the temperature sensor for the rear view mirror. Wiring diagram for 1998 says it’s a two wire connector, green/black and brown.

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Well take a look at that, yep! Exactly it! Now I need to figure out this crazy horn, at least I know this isn't important. Thanks!
 

AgentYager

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While replacing the stereo, I noticed this plug is pretty melted. Anyone have an idea what this might go to and what would cause it?

Edit.
Forgot to mention that this is a 1989 c1500 single cab with lm7/4l60e swap if that helps.

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AK49BWL

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Looks like the HVAC power supply... That melted red wire powers the HVAC controller and blower motor if so.
 

AK49BWL

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Absolutely... It's no secret that vehicle manufacturers skimp on wiring to save a buck, using gauges that are barely rated to handle the current flowing through them, much less later in life when motors and such start getting old and using more current to do the job.

The blower motor is one of, if not THE, highest current draw items in these trucks. Imo, the wiring they run to it isn't even sufficient when everything is new.
 

nhyrum

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I want to replace the factory speakers in my truck (95 w/t) and not sure what to go with in terms of speakers. Iirc, the door are the oversized 6 1/2, and the ones in the "b pillars" I'll call them are 4x6'6? I've got the factory am/fm head and just want something new, and better quality. Nothing crazy audiophile quality, but I want something better than what it's got, with the factory setup (not interested in changing out the head unless I go with a nice double din, which means basically a new dash) I don't mind spending decent money for good speakers that will fit in place of factory

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AK49BWL

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Alpine or Pioneer is what I've had good experiences with, 6.5" and 4x6s work fine. The new speakers will generally fit fine, and come with adapters to use if the holes are slightly larger.
 

phatphuck

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Hey guys. Power window question.

1999 K2500 ccsb so I have the tahoe/burb style 4 window and lock switch unit.

I'm getting intermittent performance out of the switch for front driver and passenger windows. Both switches for the rear windows work well. Front motors are good as I know they do work. Keep in mind the passenger side and rear doors switch's work their own windows without issues.

When the drivers side is not working I can hear and feel an audible click from the switch after being depressed for 2 sec or so in the down position. Same with the passenger side.

I tore down the switch unit already and cleaned the contacts extensively.

I put a test light on it. I have power at the B power accessory circuit breaker on the interior fuse panel. I'm also getting power to the switch and finally I am getting power at the motor connector WHEN and only when I'm activitating the driver window switch UP. But it does not register power when I'm pressing the switch down.

However, before you say its a bad "down" mode switch contact, I tried a brand new Dorman switch and it had the exact same issue and symptoms.

Anyone know this gremlin well? I have made a cursory look at the harness for damage but not seen anything yet?
 
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