The Stupid Electronics Questions Thread

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95TXSilverado

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Thanks for the information. I will look tomorrow and if it is, I will order the new flasher module. I appreciate it.
 

Crytone

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Is there an easy and quick way to disconnect the rear speakers in a 88 RC? Has factory radio/casette still. Have a bad speaker in the rear that making an awful sound and doing full balance front helps, but is still slightly noticeable. Have some replacement Polk speakers but won't be able to do the swap for a little bit.

Also, any insight on how to properly remove the interior trim on a regular cab to do that swap? Hopefully with no/minimal damage.
 

aleebee156

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Just curious what battery everyone is using/recommends. Im about ready to replace mine. Ive been using the napa legend battery. Just curious before I get another one if anyone has a recommendation. Truck details in signature 5.7L
 

df2x4

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Just curious what battery everyone is using/recommends. Im about ready to replace mine. Ive been using the napa legend battery. Just curious before I get another one if anyone has a recommendation. Truck details in signature 5.7L

If you don't mind spending some money, Odyssey makes the best batteries on the market IMO. I run the Odyssey Extreme 34-78-PC1500DT in both of my '97s. One of them has a very substantial stereo system and the Odyssey supports it just fine. They're both over five years old now and show no signs of weakness. The dual terminals clear the hood just fine and provide a convenient spot to hook up accessories or jumper cables. They have a four year free replacement (non pro-rated) warranty. You can order them online or find a nearby local dealer, they'll run you about $300 either way.

https://shop.odysseybattery.com/p/34-78-pc1500dt

Whatever you do, don't buy an Optima!
 

5vortec7

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Just curious what battery everyone is using/recommends. Im about ready to replace mine. Ive been using the napa legend battery. Just curious before I get another one if anyone has a recommendation. Truck details in signature 5.7L

I run Interstate because they have a store close to one of our car washes at work and I have a business account with them. Some people don’t like them but I’ve had zero complaints with them. I think the one for my 98 5.7 was around $175(edited), with both side and top mounts, 6 yr warranty
 

westex

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someone tried to steal my friends truck the steering column is broke, what steps should i go towards fixing it. I have never done anything with that stuff, can i swap it out with one from a junk yard?
 

NightRunner

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Alright, I got one that'll probably give everyone a chuckle.

My cruise control works decent enough, except when I turn on my right turn signal. When I hit the signal just right, cruise control deactivates.

I've also noticed that even though it's very rare, sometimes the truck will hesitate and almost act like it's misfiring horribly when cruise control is set at lower speeds (55mph or so).

Any ideas? Short somewhere? Cable not adjusted correctly?
 

Bigpatsz

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Hi I've done a LS swap in my 91 exsb and I'm looking for some wiring diagrams for bulk head fittings and anything anyone can give me. I'm trying to clean up the wiring in the engine bay and I've removed all the old engine sensors back to the passenger side bulk head and just cut them off there but would like to know if there are anymore wires I can removed from the harness to get it much slimmer. Thanks.
 

MrBru

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My LED conversion of traffic lights turned into the nightmare (Suburban '99):

1. When headlights are on, my dashboard traffic light indicators will get stuck. I have found, that it is caused by front side markers. Actually, when left side marker is present then left indicator does not flash. When headlights/parking lights are off, it works okay. I have found it when I put 194 bulbs there (they were burnt out before), because of "floating ground". I have bought no polarization leds, but they are not fitting there because some stupid resistors are soldered between contacts. Hyperflashing is removed with EL29 relay.

2. The worse part is that my brake lights stopped to work when headlights are on. But there were more connected problems:
2.1 Left socket has wrong voltage on upper bulb (problem with circuit board itself), so I have replaced the board to a new one:

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After that, the upper bulb is on, when headlights are on, but when the break is pressed it will switch off. Without headlights, middle bulb signalizing breaking. Also, the upper bulb now works the as the traffic light, so it has different wiring :( I will put back bulbs to see if there is no other polarity change or something.

2.2 I have CK wiring on the middle bulb (found after FUSE blowed) out, not in manual :p

3. I have bought those for backup lights, but they do not fit, the bulb is about 2 or 3 millimeters longer.

https://www.superbrightleds.com/mor...6-smd-led-tower-wedge-retrofit-car/1262/2935/

4. I have changed light under the hood in the motor area to a LED. But there was light only when the hood was opening, I have found, that grounding wire connection is so oxidized, that it probably worked as the capacity. There should be some mercury switch indicator when the hood is open, I did not find it and sometimes I need to shake hood to switch this light on.
 

big_mike

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Whatever you do, don't buy an Optima!

Why not? I got a red top with no issues and a 3yr replacement guarantee from Oriellys. It also has the stock side posts as well as extra top posts. Haven't had a issue with it except it going completely dead from sitting for a year, but a quick trip to Oriellys for a test showed it was perfect just really dead. They recharged it for free and it worked like new.

I see alot of hate on Optima on forums but alot of guys I know run them in race applications as well as daily drivers without issues.
 
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