evilunclegrimace
Does not always play well with others
Just look up the cables for a K3500 with a SF rear axle or with a FF rear axle that has the same wheel base
The Stupid Axle Questions Thread
- Thread starter Mike
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I bought cables from O'Reillys for both my '88 K1500, and my '97 K2500. I've replaced the cables on the '88 over 20 years ago, with NAPA parts.
There's not that many choices for cables, and other than the 3500s with a park-brake on the transmission, so far as I know the only difference is in the wheelbase. I don't know why an axle swap would use different cables than the stock ones.
When it was me, and I put the 9.5" semi-float "14 bolt" axle under the '88, I used the same cables that were attached to the 10-bolt piece of crap I took out.
The aftermarket cables I got from O'Reillys were NOT made to OEM specs, (but at least they were cheap Chinese junk--which, I bet, is all you can get now.) I had to dick with the mounting points where the cables are secured to the axle and the frame to make it right on the 2500, and I still haven't installed the cable from the foot lever then down under the driver's seat yet.
There's not that many choices for cables, and other than the 3500s with a park-brake on the transmission, so far as I know the only difference is in the wheelbase. I don't know why an axle swap would use different cables than the stock ones.
When it was me, and I put the 9.5" semi-float "14 bolt" axle under the '88, I used the same cables that were attached to the 10-bolt piece of crap I took out.
The aftermarket cables I got from O'Reillys were NOT made to OEM specs, (but at least they were cheap Chinese junk--which, I bet, is all you can get now.) I had to dick with the mounting points where the cables are secured to the axle and the frame to make it right on the 2500, and I still haven't installed the cable from the foot lever then down under the driver's seat yet.
Who are y'all using for wheel hub assemblies? I am hearing Timken, AC Delco, Moog, and TRQ. Two surprising things I'm seeing though is that Delco and Moog source these parts and they can be crap sometimes.
Is Timken from Rock Auto good to go? NOS right? How about TRQ? Rock Auto actually has Timken at $90 whereas 1AAuto has the TRQs at about $140?
93 K1500
Is Timken from Rock Auto good to go? NOS right? How about TRQ? Rock Auto actually has Timken at $90 whereas 1AAuto has the TRQs at about $140?
93 K1500
I’d go with Timken. I did find NOS Timken on RockAuto, but I think those are gone.
TylerZ281500
Yukon Ridin High
timken or SKF
Both NOS USA Made with Timken bearings.
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Timken is my bearing company of choice.
Hi Guys,
I have a 1993 Chevy shortbox stepside. I want to put a 4 link triangular suspension on it. When I took the rear axle off the truck and sand blasted it. I found that the axle tube was almost rusted through in the spring attachment locations. There is another person who described the same issue except his rusted to the point of leaking. I have a welder and have read the many discussions (here and on other forums) on the process of installing new axle tubes so I am prepared to remove the old tubes and install new tubes even though I have never done it before.
My thoughts are to have the lower links exactly under the frame instead of outside the frame which will allow space for wider rear tires. Narrowing the axle will allow for wider tires rather than buying wheels with a large offset and increase the risk of premature bearing failure. I am OK with the stock 10 bolt 8.5" and C clips as the LQ4 I am building will only be about 450hp and I will be using it as a Sunday driver and won't be using it on the strip. My OEM axle housing is 58 1/8" outside of backing plate to outside of backing plate. The diff and axle shafts are out so I don't have the OEM wheel mount to wheel mount measurement.
Is there an OEM axle shaft that is in the area of 2" shorter (each side) that is a 5X5 bolt pattern that I can swap into my 10 bolt 8.5 inch with out modifying anything but the axle tube length (which I have to replace anyway)?
So far I am aware that firebirds, cameros are shorter but they are 5X4.5 bolt pattern.
I couldn't find a square body pickup or a K5 in any of my 3 local yards to measure them.
I think 98 Impala is the same width as what I have (not sure, as none here to measure).
Advice welcome.
I have a 1993 Chevy shortbox stepside. I want to put a 4 link triangular suspension on it. When I took the rear axle off the truck and sand blasted it. I found that the axle tube was almost rusted through in the spring attachment locations. There is another person who described the same issue except his rusted to the point of leaking. I have a welder and have read the many discussions (here and on other forums) on the process of installing new axle tubes so I am prepared to remove the old tubes and install new tubes even though I have never done it before.
My thoughts are to have the lower links exactly under the frame instead of outside the frame which will allow space for wider rear tires. Narrowing the axle will allow for wider tires rather than buying wheels with a large offset and increase the risk of premature bearing failure. I am OK with the stock 10 bolt 8.5" and C clips as the LQ4 I am building will only be about 450hp and I will be using it as a Sunday driver and won't be using it on the strip. My OEM axle housing is 58 1/8" outside of backing plate to outside of backing plate. The diff and axle shafts are out so I don't have the OEM wheel mount to wheel mount measurement.
Is there an OEM axle shaft that is in the area of 2" shorter (each side) that is a 5X5 bolt pattern that I can swap into my 10 bolt 8.5 inch with out modifying anything but the axle tube length (which I have to replace anyway)?
So far I am aware that firebirds, cameros are shorter but they are 5X4.5 bolt pattern.
I couldn't find a square body pickup or a K5 in any of my 3 local yards to measure them.
I think 98 Impala is the same width as what I have (not sure, as none here to measure).
Advice welcome.
Others will disagree.
I think you'd have to be totally bat-shiit crazy to expend that much time, money, effort, and enthusiasm on a piece-of-crap 8.5" 10-bolt axle. You'll sink a thousand dollars worth of effort and materials into an axle that is under-engineered for full-size trucks, should never have been used to begin with. It will have no reserve strength if you upgrade the engine later. And you still haven't dealt with the ****** rear brakes that 95% of these axles are used with.
START with at least a 9.5" semi-float "14 bolt" axle, have custom axle shafts made to suit whatever width you end up with. That axle should have 11.x Duo-Servo rear brakes which is a MAJOR improvement over the 254mm (10") leading-trailing shoe drums.
If you INSIST on going through with using/modifying a "Ten-Bolt"--and obviously I DO NOT recommend it except as a "practice run" on a discardable axle to detemine the exact scope of work, and to decide if you have "enough" welder and welding skill to attach steel axle tubes to a cast-iron center section and end up with an axle that still has the bearings in-line with each other--look into late 1970s Cadillac Seville axle shafts, and in fact the entire axle. I have no figures, and I'm way too lazy to look it up. The axle is another 8.5" ring gear, suitably used in a "compact" car having an emissions-choked (Olds) small-block, using the 5" bolt circle and rear disc brakes. Seems to me the first year of production ('75) had rear drums and 4 3/4 bolt circle, but was improved for '76--'79. Maybe you just cut off the leaf-spring mounts and add whatever mounts suit your purposes.
Also, for whatever it's worth:
Instead of a "4-link triangular suspension", consider GM's Gift to NASCAR, the 1960 style "Truck Arm" rear suspension--Two triangulated arms and a Panhard rod. Should be easier and cheaper to make, and it was good enough for 150 mph.
I think you'd have to be totally bat-shiit crazy to expend that much time, money, effort, and enthusiasm on a piece-of-crap 8.5" 10-bolt axle. You'll sink a thousand dollars worth of effort and materials into an axle that is under-engineered for full-size trucks, should never have been used to begin with. It will have no reserve strength if you upgrade the engine later. And you still haven't dealt with the ****** rear brakes that 95% of these axles are used with.
START with at least a 9.5" semi-float "14 bolt" axle, have custom axle shafts made to suit whatever width you end up with. That axle should have 11.x Duo-Servo rear brakes which is a MAJOR improvement over the 254mm (10") leading-trailing shoe drums.
If you INSIST on going through with using/modifying a "Ten-Bolt"--and obviously I DO NOT recommend it except as a "practice run" on a discardable axle to detemine the exact scope of work, and to decide if you have "enough" welder and welding skill to attach steel axle tubes to a cast-iron center section and end up with an axle that still has the bearings in-line with each other--look into late 1970s Cadillac Seville axle shafts, and in fact the entire axle. I have no figures, and I'm way too lazy to look it up. The axle is another 8.5" ring gear, suitably used in a "compact" car having an emissions-choked (Olds) small-block, using the 5" bolt circle and rear disc brakes. Seems to me the first year of production ('75) had rear drums and 4 3/4 bolt circle, but was improved for '76--'79. Maybe you just cut off the leaf-spring mounts and add whatever mounts suit your purposes.
Also, for whatever it's worth:
Instead of a "4-link triangular suspension", consider GM's Gift to NASCAR, the 1960 style "Truck Arm" rear suspension--Two triangulated arms and a Panhard rod. Should be easier and cheaper to make, and it was good enough for 150 mph.
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