The Stupid Axle Questions Thread

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98chevy2500SS

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Should be a direct swap; however, I think you need a conversion u-joint for where the driveshaft and diff meet, but I could be wrong. When I swapped out my 6 lug 10 bolt for a 8 lug 14 bolt I needed to get a conversion u-joint for it.
 

Robo

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Yup, I'm sure it's been asked before or maybe not, but after Google and searching this forum over many days - here I go: what rear axle swap for a 1991 C1500 GU4 axle? I was hoping to do a one time swap for at least 3:55+ gears and disc brakes, while keeping the 5x5 lug hubs. My current axle housing in in fair condition, so rebuilding doesn't make sense.
 
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Z71Brother

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Stupid question, maybe it’s been asked before.

Doing the whole 10 bolt/14 bolt swap, found a nice deal on a 14B on the Craigslist with the 6 lug set up and guy has the front diff too.

In swapping I know some axles were either short based or longer based depending if they were on a 1500 or 2500, (correct?). As in that the mounting was different. But here’s my question finally, Craigslist guy measured for me and confirmed:
“Rear axle spring perch center to center - 47"
axle tube flange to flange - 57-1/4" “.

I don’t have my truck in front of me at the moment, does this sound right? Will they work?My set up is a 10B G80 on a k1500.

Thanks fellas.


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98chevy2500SS

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If the 14B is from a 2500 LD 6 lug (or F44 package) 4x4, it will bolt up to where your 10B was.
 

Brad Dunbar

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Ok i need some info as to what I should doo here i have a 1995 gmc sierra k1500 its got the 10 bolt gt4 gov lock rear end that iv piled up.amd i have a 1988 gmc sierra c1500 gu6 can I gut the rear end oit the 88 and put it in my 95 and just say keep the front drive shaft out for now cuz hurting times atm
 

geeeee89

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If I want to replace the ring and pinion ONLY in my rear axle, what is the absolute minimum I need to do in order to not burn anything up?

I already have my front diff rebuilt with 4.88s. Doing a SAS next summer sometime but want to have 4.88s in the meantime. I already have the gears for the rear axle. I don't want to replace bearings/seals or anything because they're all good and I'll be switching to a full floater next year. Also leaving in the factory G80 carrier.

Can I just remove the carrier, unbolt the old ring gear and install the new one, install the new pinion, put the shims on the same sides as how they came off, check the pattern, and go if the pattern is good? If the pattern is not good, can I just adjust pinion depth/backlash and then go?

Trying to avoid wasting $500 on this axle if this is semi-doable myself.
 
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If I want to replace the ring and pinion ONLY in my rear axle, what is the absolute minimum I need to do in order to not burn anything up?

I already have my front diff rebuilt with 4.88s. Doing a SAS next summer sometime but want to have 4.88s in the meantime. I already have the gears for the rear axle. I don't want to replace bearings/seals or anything because they're all good and I'll be switching to a full floater next year. Also leaving in the factory G80 carrier.

Can I just remove the carrier, unbolt the old ring gear and install the new one, install the new pinion, put the shims on the same sides as how they came off, check the pattern, and go if the pattern is good? If the pattern is not good, can I just adjust pinion depth/backlash and then go?

Trying to avoid wasting $500 on this axle if this is semi-doable myself.

Should be ok with ring gear bolts, pinion seal, crush sleeve. I think those are the only one-use parts. Maybe pinion nut? Might need different shim sizes if backlash/pinion depth is off.
There should be some pretty inexpensive regear kits without bearings floating around the interwebs.
 

PlayingWithTBI

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I think those are the only one-use parts.

I used this crush sleeve eliminator instead. With a pair of slightly opened up bearings to slide on and off the pinion, you can get your preload set right then, press on the new bearings. Plus, this is reusable!
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/yga-55048

Here's a kit for the 10 bolt
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/spz-37057

Then get a couple sacrificial bearings. These are Timkin part #s from Summit Racing.
TMK-M802049, TMK-M88048
 

PlayingWithTBI

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Oh, and here's the instructions for it...
 

Attachments

  • Standard Gear ring and pinion setup.pdf
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Mrs Simmonds

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This is a project that turned complicated. 88 Chevy k1500 that had "work" done and an engine swap. Husband crawled under to find o2 sensor (still can't find that) and found a line that is loose with no apparent spot it should connect to and no idea where it came from. It's under the drivetrain. The truck works ok, lights, heater, brakes, 4wd, etc. Rough idle but working on that next. Any idea what this is/should connect to?

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