The Official Vortec 454 Info thread

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yevgenievich

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Edit:
Was thinking if moving stock cam gears one tooth would fix the factory setup of cam being retarded. But one tooth is too much
 
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Mangonesailor

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Edit:
Was thinking if moving stock cam gears one tooth would fix the factory setup of cam being retarded. But one tooth is too much

Yeah, from what I read before you have to get an aftermarket cam/sprocket set for a carb'd motor (Mericruiser, or etc) and that will set your cam back to "0".

Progear has a set (S394F) That gives you crank +/- 4* adjustments.

Or any of these sets I think: https://www.summitracing.com/search...mponents+part-type:timing-chain-and-gear-sets

I want to say that I thought I read that a double-roller won't fit under our timing cover, it had to be a single-row chain. Might be wrong... someone else probably knows.
 

454cid

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I want to say that I thought I read that a double-roller won't fit under our timing cover, it had to be a single-row chain. Might be wrong... someone else probably knows.

There is an issue there..... not sure if it needs to be "single roller" or something else specific for a Vortec..... maybe to accommodate the reluctor?
 

yevgenievich

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Seen Some report that it does fit
There is an issue there..... not sure if it needs to be "single roller" or something else specific for a Vortec..... maybe to accommodate the reluctor?
Sounds correct. Tthat if reluctor wheel is not used should be no issue with double roller, while with reluctor in place might not work.
 

smokymtn65

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Does anyone know the max length and diameter of the poly locks that will fit under stock valve cover with the adjustable stud conversion?
 

smokymtn65

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I did read on another forum the ARP 1.2 length fit. IT was noted that anything under that was to short for the stud. Tricflow also has some 1.19 at half the cost. I need to readjust my left side i thing think one of the nuts has backed off. So I will post my findings when I do.
 

RichardSwinger

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Hey guys! Since Tapatalk no longer interfaces with the forum I no longer get "updates" and it's a little harder to use, so I might not get back in here as quickly.

In an attempt to increase ride comfort I did the GMT900 rear cab mount bushings and replaced the middle and front cab mount bushings while I was at it. That job was a real motherbear without power tools and a lift but I got it done (the funniest part is the sunburned knees, turns out if you spend the day on your back with your top half in the shade, your bottom half will get crispy ) Sadly, it didn't really do anything for me and if anything it seemed to make the cab vibration worse.

The vibration is kind of a low frequency pulsing that (at it's worst) will rattle the dashboard. I think I've narrowed down the cab vibration to be directly related to engine speed/rpm (as evidenced by replicating the vibration while at a dead stop, in neutral, at about 1500-2000 RPM). Did the basic tests of: does it vibrate more or less at different speeds (speed doesn't seem to change it), does it vibrate more or less while at speed (45-50) and then putting trans in neutral (vibrates the same), does turning to the left or right change it (nope). I'm wondering if it could possibly be the radiator mounts/isolators but I've got no idea how to even check them. I've also read about people having strange vibrations due to clutches going out in the fan but my fan is operating fine. Has anyone else experienced something like this with their 454 K2500? I'm a little disappointed, I busted my hump this weekend and burned a lot of time doing the cab mount bushings replacement and it didn't help at all.
 
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Erik the Awful

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I was going to recommend a cheap vibrating reed frequency meter for narrowing down the vibration, but I can't find one for sale. Apparently everyone's moved to high-dollar electronic meters.
 
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