hey Erik, your not talking about pullen chainsaws are you?
hahaha something that has stuck in my head since I was a kid... my uncle said, never ever buy a pullen unless you like to keep pulling! because the damn things wont ever run right! I have no idea how true that is but I have never owned a pullen. LMAO.
My Poulan is the best chainsaw I've ever owned.
Granted, it's the only one I ever bought "new", instead of from a garage sale, or a hand-me-down from Father-In-Law.
LOL! You're right where I was two months ago with my John Deere L130! The rebuild kit for a K46 has shot up to $700 and a brand new Husqvarna K57 is $300. I didn't swap the shafts, I cut down the spacers that space the wheels out. Also, you have to do a bit of grinding on the speed lever of the K57 to get full speed out of it.
I don't know how I missed this post.
I bet your K57 is the same as my K57; you got it from eBay and I got it from a surplus store in Nebraska; but I bet it's the same seller and the same transaxle. They've sold-out of those transaxles.
BEWARE--I bet your fan on top of the K57 Transaxle is spinning the WRONG DIRECTION. The fans are color-coded, white fans are intended to spin one way, the black fans spin the other way--at least mine were set-up that way. I forgot to mention in my original transaxle post that along with changing the levers, and reversing the wedge-plate (swash-plate) that I also swapped the fan and pulley and a spacer on that same shaft, from the K46 to the K57.
I wouldn't dare put a temp sensor and oil outlet on the underside of my riding mower. I'd be afraid I'd knock the thing off by driving over rough terrain. But if you aren't driving in and out of ditches, or over uneven ground...yeah, that oughta work.
I buy quality stuff 95+% of the time. The most recent was a snap on 3/8 drive 13mm mid depth socket.
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15mm 3/8" drive "regular" 6-point socket. Popped like a .22LR when it split. After this split, I got smart enough to use a 15mm 1/2" drive socket.
Head bolts on a '93 Lumina 3.4L DOHC. The bolts are the metric equivalent to 7/16 like a SBC, but they spec a Torque-Angle procedure rather than a pure torque sequence. Pretty sure this popped on removal of the head bolts, 'cause they were REALLY hard to break free. Bolts appeared to have zero lube on the threads or under the heads. Fought EVERY ONE getting them loose--I torque-tested a couple of them and was over 150--160 ft/lbs before they turned. Going back together, I used the service-manual Torque-Angle procedure. When I was all done, I put a torque wrench on them, and found that they were all around 65--70 ft/lbs, just like the 7/16 bolts on a SBC.
