Teal daily driven farm truck.

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Orpedcrow

I don’t know what I’m doing
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Hmm… :strokes beard:


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Sent my measurements to my machinist, he says I’m probably looking at going .040 over.

SWP also has some nice looking aluminium heads that are $60 cheaper than the rebuilt iron vortecs, I just need to call them and see if they have a set with the vortec intake pattern.
 

Orpedcrow

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If I were buying a complete rotating assembly, I'd absolutely go with a 383 kit. If I were wanting to stay with a 350, I'd get a junkyard bottom end.
There’s a couple reasons I wasn’t considering the 383, one being the transmission, I don’t want to grenade it the first time I go to pass someone on the highway. Another is the added cost of block prep (either my time or the machinist time) and the slight added cost of the rotating assembly. Junkyarding parts out here isn’t completely worth the cost savings for me.

My basic math tells me that, having my machinist recondition all my current factory parts is only about a $300 savings vs buying a balanced rotating assembly of assumed “better quality” parts. I wouldn’t consider what I’m trying to accomplish as a “budget build” but it is just a daily driver with smoothness and reliability being a bigger driving factor than power.

Everytime I fix or replace something, I try to find something better than what I’m replacing or fixing.
 

Orpedcrow

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Orpedcrow

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Ok, much brain racking has been doing…

Ill preface by saying I am doing all the assembly in each instance.


It’s $179 difference between having my machinist do all the accompanying work on my factory bottom end ( that includes balancing but not including Mallory metal if needed) and just having him do the block prep and me buying a rotating assembly from SWP.

Machinist would use all factory parts, engine tech bearings and rings, KB or sealed power OE pistons. 2 bolt block .040 over.

SWP includes Scat crank and rods. Weisco pistons, Hastings rings and king bearings

Or for another $676 I can buy the SWP short block kit that includes a seasoned 4bolt block .030 over making it an $855 dollar difference between having my machinist do everything and buying all new.

I don’t know if I could find a 4 bolt block AND have all the machine work done to it for under $1000

 

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Caman96

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And you can ignore most of my other posts… I’m just letting them build it. There’s just to many options and decisions to be made for my little brain. I could’ve been driving it by now :Stupid Me::shitsweak:
Would’ve been cool to see what happened just reassembling, but who can afford such experiments. :redxhitrf7:
 

Orpedcrow

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Would’ve been cool to see what happened just reassembling, but who can afford such experiments. :redxhitrf7:
I know and I agree. If I wasn’t so emotionally invested in this truck and didn’t plan on driving it every day I would have.

I’ll build a roadkill style, obnoxious and slapped together something or other eventually…. Which reminds me, when I get my truck out of the shop, my tractor is going back in so I can fix the clutch. Again :banghead: Heck I might pull the engine and rering it and put a tractor pull cam in it lol

Stainless grab handle exhaust
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