It's not like gasoline is expensive or anything. They're practically giving it away.
Who needs proper timing advance?
Who needs proper timing advance?
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It may not be rod knock like I originally thought. I drove the truck some more today and I heard absolutely no knock, even at high RPMs. But after driving it for about 10ish minutes it randomly came back.A knock that loud could be picked-up by the knock sensor, which would retard the timing trying to control the "knocking".
The old-school test for the knock-sensor system was to whack something cast-iron--the intake or exhaust manifold, typically--with a small hammer. Watch the timing; or just listen to the RPM. When you ping the iron, the timing retards and the RPM goes down; then recovers if the system is working.
So I could see a rod-knock maybe screwing with your timing on a fairly regular basis.
Well a few reasons:Why wouldn’t you top off the tank with fresh gas, set timing with EST disconnected and then go from there? That would be the proper procedure rather than chasing your tail. Set it at 0 degrees with the black/tan wire under the glove box disconnected. Reconnect it after setting 0 degrees and tell us what you have. If you’ve monkeyed around with distributor timing then your first step should be to set the engine at TDC firing stroke, reset dizzy and then do the above. Sounds like you’re taking a shotgun approach and don’t know where you are on timing. Stop and reset it properly using fundamental setup
Cracked/broken flexplates are very common on these engines.It may not be rod knock like I originally thought... ...it seemed like the sound was coming from the flex plate/torque converter. The flex plate may be warped or out of balance as something was hitting the engine as it was running.
A fuel gauge "over-full" may indicate a broken wire to the sending unit.The fuel gauge may not work. Because last week when we were working on it, it was almost on "Empty". We put about 5 gallons in it and it magically shows "full" now. So I don't actually know how much it actually has.
Could be the ignition module, the EST module, the ECM, or the wire harness connecting them.As @PlayingWithTBI mentioned, the ICM may be on the fritz. Disconnected, it runs great, very smooth at idle and is very responsive. Connected, it runs rough, hesitates and would die multiple times. Most likely will have to replace the ICM/distributor in the near future.