TBI small block intake gasket replacement (PIC HEAVY)

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someotherguy

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And more! In the final pic actual disassembly has begun; sensors disconnected, negative battery cable removed from intake, positive feed removed from alternator, pressure cycling switch on A/C manifold removed to help get harness out of the way, radiator hose removed. REMEMBER when removing the brace from the rear of the A/C compressor, do not turn the head of the bolt with any tool! Turn only the nut to remove it. The three bolts holding the A/C compressor on the bracket are kept in place by small tabs cast into the aluminum bracket; if you turn the bolt head you can easily damage or break the bracket!
Couldn't go back and edit at this point, but I'm sure anybody paying attention notices the A/C compressor switch didn't get removed (it's still there) but the connector to it was removed, what I meant to type. Lots of details flying by while doing that job. The harness connector gets removed so you can move the rest of the harness out of the way. There's no need to remove the switch itself and you'll lose refrigerant if you do, so leave it in place.

Richard
 

Fatbastard

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Hecks yeah,
Thanks for taking the time to put this all together. I did an engine swap in my Blazer and it's been apart so long I lost track of which were bolts, which were studs, and where all those brackets go.
 

OlSmokie

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I'm just getting ready to tackle the intake gaskets on my 90 Silverado with the same problem. I logged in to get some tips on doing it, but didn't expect such a detailed tutorial.
Thanks!
 

someotherguy

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I'm just getting ready to tackle the intake gaskets on my 90 Silverado with the same problem. I logged in to get some tips on doing it, but didn't expect such a detailed tutorial.
Thanks!
No sweat! I wrote it as I did the job; it's been many years since but if I can elaborate on anything please feel free to ask in here. If I don't have the answer surely someone else will.

Richard
 

johnckhall

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Great reference thread! I’m kinda glad I didn’t attempt this one myself. I think skill level I’d have been ok, but patience level is a different story. Oh, and time wise I would have been days and days. :anitoof:
 

Illbedipped

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Mine is probably due a new set of gaskets too after 105K. I don't see any signs of any major engine work by the original owner other than a water pump at some point.
I like that you kept the stock look!
 

Xoloski

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When reinstalling the distributor, remember the helical gear will turn the rotor as you push down, so turn the rotor counterclockwise slightly behind where you want it to end up. Remember the marks you made and line up the body of the distributor, too. Carefully insert the distributor and seat it; when it sits all the way down you'll know it's engaged the oil pump drive. If it won't seat don't force it; try lifting up and moving the rotor a tiny bit either way to see if that helps. If all else fails you can use a very long screwdriver to manually turn the oil pump drive to match what you need on the distributor shaft. Replace the fuel line O-rings! Once you're sure everything is buttoned back up and ready to go, be sure to disconnect the tan/black wire for the timing bypass, set base timing to zero degrees BTDC, snug distributor down, re-check, be sure distributor is tight (don't go crazy; you can crack the aluminum intake) and shut it down, reconnect the tan/black wire. Last engine shot is with all the freshly detailed parts back on, looking good!

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I finished up about 5AM, just in time to pull outside for a test drive as a bad storm came in. Backing down the ramps from the 8" dropoff in the dark, now you can see the "mess" I made by working carefully inside - just a couple small spots, easily cleaned up! You wouldn't have thought an intake gasket job just got done here.

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Nice work!
Great detail and discipline.
Professional narrative.
 
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