Talk some sense into me please.

[R422b]

Modular for the manufacturer not the consumer. It probably has more to do with running the parts on the same machinery.

That's precisely what it is. In a few hours they could change from manufacturing one engine to the other. I don't like anything Ford that was made in my lifetime and from my research I don't even like the original founder himself. Seems to be a company founded by a jerk and they never got any better.

Talking about GMT400s using Tapatalk

 

[someotherguy]

AND their parts guys, guess how many times I've asked what plant a particular car was from only to be answered with "why does it matter" or some other more colorful version of that.

On the near-psychopathic disregard for customers, did you know if your Ford is more than 10 model years old, that there is no way for the dealer to get you a key code?

Good lord no kidding. I almost got into a fight with a couple of dudes at the Ford dealer parts counter when buying crap to keep my g/f's (at the time) truck running.. '95 7.3 NA turdmobile. Replacing water pump, I know that you have to add their special additive to the coolant to keep head gasket erosion at bay. Ford has test strips for you to measure the additive content so you keep the balance correct. Seems wise. I ask for the additive, and the test strips. Guy says just pour it in. I say I'm not dumping ALL the coolant and flushing the block, I'm just replacing the water pump. He repeats just pour it in. Dude, just sell me the test strips. His manager hears us debating it and comes out and cops attitude with me. Parts guy emboldened by this cops attitude too. They accuse me of "knowing everything" which I respond, I don't know anything about Fords other than they are trash, and the manual says I need to use the test strips so WILL YOU JUST SELL ME THE ******* TEST STRIPS?

Yeah, I ended up having to go somewhere else to get them...

Hey OP, your thread title says, "Talk some sense into me please." - how's this - junk that Ford, ASAP

Richard

 

[R422b]

Plus repair/rebuild parts for our OBS truck are more reasonably priced than others.

Yeah that's my thought I'm just thinking if I spend $2,500 bucks I can't be spending much on repairs this year because I have to be working not fixing my truck.
The thing I've noticed with my Chevys is usually I can limp them along for quite a while before I am forced to make the repair.
My issue is I love fixing cars but I put a ton of miles on in a year so I need something that's going to be immediately pretty reliable.
Now I would love to get a truck like that and pull the motor and transmission take the cab off and take it to the paint shop and have the frame painted and rebuild the suspension and redo the body work and then put a brand new motor and a fresh transmission in it but I just can't do that yet.

I'm one of those few people that when I can afford a new work truck I'll probably buy the old truck I've been dreaming of for years and fix it up just right.

Talking about GMT400s using Tapatalk

 

[R422b]

Good lord no kidding. I almost got into a fight with a couple of dudes at the Ford dealer parts counter when buying crap to keep my g/f's (at the time) truck running.. '95 7.3 NA turdmobile. Replacing water pump, I know that you have to add their special additive to the coolant to keep head gasket erosion at bay. Ford has test strips for you to measure the additive content so you keep the balance correct. Seems wise. I ask for the additive, and the test strips. Guy says just pour it in. I say I'm not dumping ALL the coolant and flushing the block, I'm just replacing the water pump. He repeats just pour it in. Dude, just sell me the test strips. His manager hears us debating it and comes out and cops attitude with me. Parts guy emboldened by this cops attitude too. They accuse me of "knowing everything" which I respond, I don't know anything about Fords other than they are trash, and the manual says I need to use the test strips so WILL YOU JUST SELL ME THE ******* TEST STRIPS?

Yeah, I ended up having to go somewhere else to get them...

Hey OP, your thread title says, "Talk some sense into me please." - how's this - junk that Ford, ASAP

Richard

Yeah that's probably what will happen. I'll keep the bed though it's a nice Scelzi bed.

Talking about GMT400s using Tapatalk

 

[R422b]

Check out the thread on the average mileage on our trucks, the most common answer was 200-250k, and I don't see many engine carnage threads on here.
Most of the GMT400 owners on here bought their trucks with 200k+ miles.

Yeah that's my thought too it's a dang reliable motor.

Talking about GMT400s using Tapatalk

 

[R422b]

Essentially it would be built Ford tuff with Chevy stuff. Gearheads have been doing this for decades. No computer? The 4L80E needs a computer, however if you go with a carburetor the motor won't. No as for gutless. My 350 in my 1ton hauls exactly what I want with no issues. So it really depends on how you build the motor.

I meant before I put in my Chevy equipment I would want no computer left. I would want to eliminate everything computer related on the Ford chassis that way I could drop in my Chevy motor and transmission with an aftermarket computer.
I think with all of y'all's assistance I talked myself out of it. [emoji16]

Talking about GMT400s using Tapatalk

 

[454cid]

.....'95 7.3 NA...

I think I would have looked for information from the International end after that. Those old IDI's have their following. I believe they're supposed to be much better than the 6.2L/6.5L diesels.

 

[someotherguy]

I think I would have looked for information from the International end after that. Those old IDI's have their following. I believe they're supposed to be much better than the 6.2L/6.5L diesels.

In 2003, parts (and dealership knowledge) for a 1995 F250 should have been a no-brainer. The coolant additive was a Ford dealer item as well as the test strip kit. I think I had to get the belt tensioner from them, as well. By the way the first tensioner I installed broke the locating dowel the moment I pulled the arm back so I could install the belt. Just snapped right off. Once I got the new one installed, and replaced the water pump as well, noticed the belt was no longer running true. Looked up the manual for the solution? You shim something or other.. except their problem scenario was the opposite of what I had; to get the belt in line would have required shimming *all* the accessories. I honestly can't remember how I solved it but the battle with the parts counter toads, the 21 bolts holding the water pump on (this is after removing everything else in the way first), and the quality of the Ford-provided parts left a bad taste in my mouth that so far has lasted to this day.

Richard

 

[someotherguy]

I'll throw some other Ford horror stories in.. just for good measure.

Can't remember the year squarebody Merc Grand Marquis that I had as a storage lot auction car, it needed head gaskets. Figured hell it's a 5.0; it should be pretty tough. Take the heads to the machine shop and they give 'em a little shave to be sure they're flat, do the valve job, etc. Put it back together and realize oh ****, these rockers are nonadjustable, so to solve the pushrod length issue we have to shim the rockers. Order the shims and wait for them to arrive, then fight with that crap. Get the engine buttoned up, charge the A/C, throw it out front for sale. Runs great, drives great, car is pretty solid. Battery goes dead every few days, crap old battery, figure it's just done. Except for one day the car catches fire just sitting out there, and I'm there just in time to pull the hood release as the cable let go under the hood, try not to burn my hands as I pop the hood, put the fire out, it flares back up because it's electrical. Yank the **** out of the battery cable to get it loose and put the fire out again. Fire source? Appeared to be the pump for the self-leveling suspension. Why it would catch fire and burn the car practically to the ground without having blown a fuse, tripped a circuit breaker, or....? 100% original unhacked wiring harness on a grandpa car. Now scrap metal, though I did pull the engine/trans and sell them separately.

Not even gonna try to recall what a royal pain it was to do -what should be- simple things like radiator and water pump on my wife's 5.0 Explorer. Blew me away that on a well-cared-for vehicle, everything in the world was wrong with that POS. I was so happy the day that it left here and she started driving my '94 C2500LD (she loved it, too.)

Richard

 

[R422b]

In 2003, parts (and dealership knowledge) for a 1995 F250 should have been a no-brainer. The coolant additive was a Ford dealer item as well as the test strip kit. I think I had to get the belt tensioner from them, as well. By the way the first tensioner I installed broke the locating dowel the moment I pulled the arm back so I could install the belt. Just snapped right off. Once I got the new one installed, and replaced the water pump as well, noticed the belt was no longer running true. Looked up the manual for the solution? You shim something or other.. except their problem scenario was the opposite of what I had; to get the belt in line would have required shimming *all* the accessories. I honestly can't remember how I solved it but the battle with the parts counter toads, the 21 bolts holding the water pump on (this is after removing everything else in the way first), and the quality of the Ford-provided parts left a bad taste in my mouth that so far has lasted to this day.

Richard

My parents own a 73 powerbroke in their conversion School bus and they needed a fan clutch so they have the parts guy look it up and they only showed one available in the entire USA so they ended up paying $600 for a fan clutch.

Talking about GMT400s using Tapatalk