Talk me into, or out of, it...

[someotherguy]

Unbolted the winch, then some more grinder and sledgehammer work got the "wrecker unit" out of the truck. I'll still need to do some grinder clean-up on the gooseneck hitch top plate and maybe get some new bolts for it..

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

Oh my fcking back is killing me but scrap metal out of the bed and all the grinder dust, metal shavings, drill curlies, and crud vacuumed out. Things are looking up

You must be registered for see images attach

Richard

 

[someotherguy]

Some tune-up style work today. New wires, cap, rotor - all made in USA! (United Automotive kit from Rock) Got new plugs on the way, too, but for now I just pulled the one that had the broken plug wire and cleaned the plug off.

The old cap and rotor kinda ugly..

You must be registered for see images attach

Critters definitely been at work under the hood, but it's slowly coming together. Still haven't found where the heater hose connector used to be on the intake, but there's some plasticy-looking crud at the rear middle that I wonder if it's not some JB Weld type product someone boogered on there to plug up the broken connector.

You must be registered for see images attach

After plug wires, cap, rotor, coolant temperature sensor (and also the dash gauge sender as both were pretty crusty and inop), plus I found the broken pigtail end for the O2 sensor and hooked it up temporarily for now - the engine is running much better.

Cold engine fast idle

xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media

Warmed up a bit and slower idle, sounding a lot like a big block with no cat and a Flowmaster should sound like

xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media

Richard

 

[df2x4]

I feel like I should just move this thread into a build section at this point.

If you want me to just let me know. I can put it in whichever section you'd prefer.

 

[454cid]

What's the truck have for exhaust?

Will you go platinum or copper for plugs?

How are the valve cover gaskets?

 

[Supercharged111]

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[termite]

Some tune-up style work today. New wires, cap, rotor - all made in USA! (United Automotive kit from Rock) Got new plugs on the way, too, but for now I just pulled the one that had the broken plug wire and cleaned the plug off.

The old cap and rotor kinda ugly..

You must be registered for see images attach

Critters definitely been at work under the hood, but it's slowly coming together. Still haven't found where the heater hose connector used to be on the intake, but there's some plasticy-looking crud at the rear middle that I wonder if it's not some JB Weld type product someone boogered on there to plug up the broken connector.

You must be registered for see images attach

After plug wires, cap, rotor, coolant temperature sensor (and also the dash gauge sender as both were pretty crusty and inop), plus I found the broken pigtail end for the O2 sensor and hooked it up temporarily for now - the engine is running much better.

Cold engine fast idle

xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media

Warmed up a bit and slower idle, sounding a lot like a big block with no cat and a Flowmaster should sound like

xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media

Richard

Makes me want to ditch the boring OEM exhaust on my burb that much sooner. Cat, maybe not OE, will stay though.

My 95 7.4 has heater outlet just ahead of distributor toward passenger side.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[someotherguy]

I feel like I should just move this thread into a build section at this point.

If you want me to just let me know. I can put it in whichever section you'd prefer.

Yeah, I mean it's kinda turned into that. Wherever you think is appropriate.

What's the truck have for exhaust?

Will you go platinum or copper for plugs?

How are the valve cover gaskets?

Factory manifolds (cracked), no cat, and some Flowmaster single in/dual out, sounds like a 40 series. All the pipe from beyond the Y is ancient and rusty, and the joint ahead of where the cat should be has a loose clamp that I can't tighten because it's too rusty. Don't get me wrong; the truck itself isn't rusty, but it's obvious it sat in a field for years.

I thought about just getting regular CR43TS for the plugs but for only a few bucks more I went platinum with the Rapidfire 1's. Hope it's not a mistake.

The valve covers gaskets are.. leaking. The passenger one had an excuse I guess as someone left a single bolt really loose for some reason; the other ones didn't look disturbed at all so I don't think the cover has been off. It was the very bottom rear bolt, the one that has the 4-position plug wire loom on it. Driver side is leaking too, right up at the front. Next parts order. Though now that I look I'm curious about the options - I thought they were all rubber, but the Fel-Pro offering says it's a proprietary cork-rubber formula (their "PermaDry" line.)

Makes me want to ditch the boring OEM exhaust on my burb that much sooner. Cat, maybe not OE, will stay though.

My 95 7.4 has heater outlet just ahead of distributor toward passenger side.

I'll readily admit I've always liked how Flowmaster 40 series have sounded on these pre-LS engines. I think I'll end up dumping the exhaust right behind the muffler, aimed at the ground with turndowns, though. On a lowered truck it just intensifies the sound, to me.

Thanks for the info on the heater hose connection. That's the general area I noticed the plasticy gunk so I'll take a closer look there. Kind of afraid to chop into it and turn it into a bigger job, but this thing will eventually need to be daily driver reliable, so I'll have to bite the bullet at some point.

-----------------

Further progress.. added it to my insurance, picked up my title bond, and hoping to hit the tax office tomorrow and file for title/registration.

No pics.. removed those big lights from the rear bumper, and pulled an old factory exhaust hanger that was no longer being used, and rattling against a tailpipe. Pulled the center caps from the wheels. Think I'll repaint the wheels similar to factory gray, leave the caps off, keep the trim rings, and maybe run some closed-end chrome lugs for a little bling. Rear axle has 1 bad stud so I'll have to deal with that.

Oh, and Mr. Let's Weld Everything saw some reason to stitch up the receiver hitch to the frame. I mean, it's bolted on like it should be, but he also ran some beads to the damn frame. WTF.. so I guess it'll stay on for now, unless it becomes an issue when the truck is lowered later.

Tires will come next as they'll be necessary to drive it. Then start putting cookie money aside for the drop kit!

Richard

 

[454cid]

Factory manifolds (cracked), no cat, and some Flowmaster single in/dual out, sounds like a 40 series. All the pipe from beyond the Y is ancient and rusty, and the joint ahead of where the cat should be has a loose clamp that I can't tighten because it's too rusty. Don't get me wrong; the truck itself isn't rusty, but it's obvious it sat in a field for years.

What are your thoughts on replacement? Will what's there last awhile?

The valve covers gaskets are.. leaking. The passenger one had an excuse I guess as someone left a single bolt really loose for some reason; the other ones didn't look disturbed at all so I don't think the cover has been off. It was the very bottom rear bolt, the one that has the 4-position plug wire loom on it. Driver side is leaking too, right up at the front. Next parts order. Though now that I look I'm curious about the options - I thought they were all rubber, but the Fel-Pro offering says it's a proprietary cork-rubber formula (their "PermaDry" line.)

I'm not sure how a cork gasket would work with factory cast valve covers that originally had silicone. I "think" I used Felpro, last year, but I know I had two sets... also some Victor Reinz that were on clearance. The originals started leaking, and for a short time tightening up the bolts slowed it down. I also had a couple of loose bolts. When I finally removed the old gaskets, they had gotten hard.... 300k miles of use.

I'll readily admit I've always liked how Flowmaster 40 series have sounded on these pre-LS engines. I think I'll end up dumping the exhaust right behind the muffler, aimed at the ground with turndowns, though. On a lowered truck it just intensifies the sound, to me.

My 69 Buick Electra 430ci had Flowmasters on it.... sounded awesome, before a bearing spun or whatever happened to the engine. I looked and the mufflers didn't have the series stamped on them that I could find. One of those mufflers had dragged on the pavement and was worn through.

 

[someotherguy]

What are your thoughts on replacement? Will what's there last awhile?

Yeah; I mean it's trash but should hold up a while if I replace the clamp, or run a bead around the joint. The echo tips out back aren't my style at all and they're kind of beat-up, but honestly, they sort of fit the truck's character. I may leave the setup intact until I get sick of it.

I'm not sure how a cork gasket would work with factory cast valve covers that originally had silicone. I "think" I used Felpro, last year, but I know I had two sets... also some Victor Reinz that were on clearance. The originals started leaking, and for a short time tightening up the bolts slowed it down. I also had a couple of loose bolts. When I finally removed the old gaskets, they had gotten hard.... 300k miles of use.

They're "cork-rubber" whatever that means. I do recall the ones I did on the '96 Vortec 7.4 were rubber, and IIRC were Fel-Pro. I also recall them being a little bit of a PITA to install because they didn't fit exactly (perimeter slightly too big) and kept wanting to jump out of the valve cover rails. Same thing on the '95 TBI 7.4 3500HD that you sent me the spare valve covers for. I swear I bought Fel-Pro for it too and they were rubber, but that was 12 years ago. Wonder why Fel-Pro is only showing this cork-rubber thing now? VS50388R is their listing for all the cast cover 7.4's (1991-2000)

Richard

 

[DerekTheGreat]

Some tune-up style work today. New wires, cap, rotor - all made in USA! (United Automotive kit from Rock)...

Richard

I put the same brand & style cap on my truck before. As good as it looked and as much as I wanted to like it, I don't think I got 10k miles out of it. The coil's post burned up inside the cap which allowed the button and spring to fall out of it. As a result, it may have taken my old ICM with it, as leading up to the break-down I had the ole fluttery tach going on. Hopefully you'll have better luck than I did and perhaps their big block caps are different from the small block ones.