sewlow
Bitchin' Stitchin'
These trucks need a 3" difference Rr>Fr to ride level.
My black truck just had 2" shackles for the first couple years.
Had the stinkbug stance. ...and too much gap between the top of the tire & the wheel well opening.
Dropped it to 4/6. Stil stinkbug. Still gappage, but less. (Doh!)
@ 4/7, (+ shackle @ 1") it sits level & the tops of the rear tires just tuck.
My blue one is @ 2/4. It's sits at a steeper angle than my other truck did @ 4/6. Bother's me. I take pix of the truck so it's not so apparent!
Getting another inch in the rear for a 2/5 is counter-productive.
Only way to do that properly is a flip for 6" & then raising it 1" with a short shackle. Still have to notch the frame. I'd feel better with the crossmember done, too.
Screw that. If doing the work of getting it dropped with a flip, it's staying @ 6. ...or mayyybe going lower! Raising trucks is for 4x4-land.
Then the front coils would need a hair cut. 1 coil = 2" drop.
So with all that blah-blah-blah, when/if you get to check it out closer, look to see if the frame's notched, or, if it's not, just how close are the axle tubes to the frame?
Longer shackle with extra holes? (Factory ones don't have the extra.)
Stock hangars mount the spring's eye below the frame. Drop ones mount the eye in the center of the frame width.
*Front hangars will mess with the pinion angle*
So from there you could figure out exactly what's been done to the truck & if it's a hack job or not.
If there is no overload spring, the rear will ride like a PoGo stick.
When I first went to 7", I removed the overload & replaced it with a custom one bent to match the others. Got the 1", but it rode like poop. The rear would go straight through the travel & onto the bump stops at every dip, R/R crossing or any hint of enthusiatic cornering. No progression to the suspension travel, which is what that 'overload' provides.
Drop shackles & hangars, a removed leaf & no notch?
My black truck just had 2" shackles for the first couple years.
Had the stinkbug stance. ...and too much gap between the top of the tire & the wheel well opening.
Dropped it to 4/6. Stil stinkbug. Still gappage, but less. (Doh!)
@ 4/7, (+ shackle @ 1") it sits level & the tops of the rear tires just tuck.
My blue one is @ 2/4. It's sits at a steeper angle than my other truck did @ 4/6. Bother's me. I take pix of the truck so it's not so apparent!
Getting another inch in the rear for a 2/5 is counter-productive.
Only way to do that properly is a flip for 6" & then raising it 1" with a short shackle. Still have to notch the frame. I'd feel better with the crossmember done, too.
Screw that. If doing the work of getting it dropped with a flip, it's staying @ 6. ...or mayyybe going lower! Raising trucks is for 4x4-land.
Then the front coils would need a hair cut. 1 coil = 2" drop.
So with all that blah-blah-blah, when/if you get to check it out closer, look to see if the frame's notched, or, if it's not, just how close are the axle tubes to the frame?
Longer shackle with extra holes? (Factory ones don't have the extra.)
Stock hangars mount the spring's eye below the frame. Drop ones mount the eye in the center of the frame width.
*Front hangars will mess with the pinion angle*
So from there you could figure out exactly what's been done to the truck & if it's a hack job or not.
If there is no overload spring, the rear will ride like a PoGo stick.
When I first went to 7", I removed the overload & replaced it with a custom one bent to match the others. Got the 1", but it rode like poop. The rear would go straight through the travel & onto the bump stops at every dip, R/R crossing or any hint of enthusiatic cornering. No progression to the suspension travel, which is what that 'overload' provides.
Drop shackles & hangars, a removed leaf & no notch?
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