Tail light resto

[fancyTBI]

Started by wet sanding my tail lights with 1500-3600 grit sand paper. I use Micro Mesh to get the job done. Then I used Mother’s restorer and the Polish ball on a drill. Worked well. Before and after. Pay no mind to the clear coat that’s gone. Haven’t seen it since the 00s

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[Eveready]

Spray them with some of this stuff and they will stay nice longer. I did mine in a similar way with sandpaper and then red rouge on a buffer, then this stuff. Is also UV resistant so it works well on headlights too.

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[kennythewelder]

I had done basically the same thing with mine. They also looked good, but I had a circuit board on the passengers side. When I unscrewed the lens to remove it, The clip that the screw goes into on the light, broke and fell apart. I tried to plastic weld it back together, and that did work, but the clip was a little off. So when I put it back on the truck, It didnt line up rite. I did manage to get it back on, but you could tell it was not lined up rite. I gave up and just bought 2 new tail light lenses. The new ones not only look better, but they are a lot brighter.

 

[98chevy2500SS]

^it also sucks when the damn circuit board screws are rusted, so the socket pretty much makes the hex head perfectly circle. Damn salt belt! Sometimes it's just easier to buy new tail lights, like you said.

@fancyTBI the tail light resto looks really nice!

 

[fancyTBI]

@98chevy2500SS I've heard about the circuit boards going bad, I'm glad that mine are still presumably good!

@kennythewelder I'll try that clear, I've never had luck with Rustoleum and especially any kind of clear lol! I think if I try to take off my tail lamps the same will happen to me like with yours.

 

[someotherguy]

Can't remember what brand clear I used in the past but the real key is getting any kind of wax/oil/residue/etc. off the plastic before applying the clear. I'd hit them with TSP or TSP substitute or failing that at least some prep spray, just be sure the prep spray you get isn't some hardcore stuff that will melt plastic...check the label.

Light coats and don't load up on them or you'll get runs/sags quickly. But yes, clear is what will keep them shiny in the long term; that polish job will go to hell soon otherwise!

Richard

 

[TechNova]

3" pneumatic DA sander, use 800 grit then down thru the grits. 1000 to 1500 to 3000 Trizac. Then normal rubbing compound and polish on 3" buffer. I use a Presta UV cear.
I have done hundreds of plastic headlights and a lot of taillights.
I used to do squad car lights every year until I found the good clear. Now I haven't done them for 5years.
I demo the process in high school shops, they take about 15 minutes per light.
regardless of method, you will get better results starting coarser than you think you need. This helps get the old UV coating off

 

[fancyTBI]

Great advice guys, thanks. I will have to try this!