Swap K3500 Front on K1500 Suburban?

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boy&hisdogs

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I missed this reply earlier (I don't get the email notifications I expect from this forum despite having my settings changed to instant notification). Thank you, that was very useful. And you're right, part of the reason for acquiring a Suburban is to be able to haul many kids safely in winter. Over the Spring/Summer/Fall months, I use a 96 Roadmaster wagon to carry 3 to 6 kids aged 3 to 8 to miscellaneous destinations. But that's not an appropriate vehicle for Vermont winters and I'm hoping the Suburban with really good dedicated winter tires and some upgraded brakes will serve the same purpose.

The front calipers from the 2500/3500 are a direct bolt in too. You still use the 1500 pads and rotors and everything, the calipers just have a bigger piston. I did both the 14bSF and front caliper swap and even lifted on 37s it still stops better than it did stock with the 1500 stuff. I recommend doing both at the same time, because doing only one or the other will put them out of proportion. I did the rear first and it was weird having such a strong rear with the weak little stock front brakes.

There are also multiple sizes of wheel cylinder for the brakes on the 14bSF. I got the biggest one and it's been great so far.
 

Supercharged111

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The front calipers from the 2500/3500 are a direct bolt in too. You still use the 1500 pads and rotors and everything, the calipers just have a bigger piston. I did both the 14bSF and front caliper swap and even lifted on 37s it still stops better than it did stock with the 1500 stuff. I recommend doing both at the same time, because doing only one or the other will put them out of proportion. I did the rear first and it was weird having such a strong rear with the weak little stock front brakes.

There are also multiple sizes of wheel cylinder for the brakes on the 14bSF. I got the biggest one and it's been great so far.

This, the JB7 master cylinder, and hydroboost will give you enough to lock the tires at will. I can lock my 287/70/17 with ease on my 1509 with the same setup. I do still want to play with a larger rear wheel cylinder as I want more rear bias, will probably do new shoes and drums first.
 

boy&hisdogs

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This, the JB7 master cylinder, and hydroboost will give you enough to lock the tires at will. I can lock my 287/70/17 with ease on my 1509 with the same setup. I do still want to play with a larger rear wheel cylinder as I want more rear bias, will probably do new shoes and drums first.

Mine were all brand new everything since it's hard to find those 6 lug drums. Seems like everyone wants them, all the 6 lug semi floaters I see are missing drums, all the 8 lugs still have them. I think you're supposed to replace calipers and discs together too for wear pattern reasons. I figured why cheap out now and went through all of it. The only thing I didn't replace was the vac booster and m/c (previously swapped to nbs style). Stainless lines too, but be careful. I had a Procomp one blow on me and it caused an accident.

I wanted to go hydroboost too but after that accident I have second thoughts about monkeying with my brakes anymore, even if it's supposed to be better. Braided stainless lines from a big name brand are supposed to be better too...
 

Schurkey

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I think you're supposed to replace calipers and discs together too for wear pattern reasons.
Nothing to cause "wear pattern" problems on a caliper. IF the piston(s) move freely like they should--not sticking or seized; and if the mounting hardware glides smoothly...the thing is probably fine for another hundred-thousand miles. Calipers get replaced because the pistons get sticky/seized, or the bleeder screw breaks off, or the mounting hardware sticks/seizes.

Rotors/discs are a genuine wear item. They can be resurfaced if needed--but--given the pricing of Chinese rotors, almost no one resurfaces a rotor any more.

Stainless lines too, but be careful. I had a Procomp one blow on me and it caused an accident...
...Braided stainless lines from a big name brand are supposed to be better too...
Procomp? Big name brand? WHICH "Procomp"???

Procomp Electronics is JUNK. Bottom-feeder Communist Crap. Note that they sold all sorts of "hot-roddy" stuff, not just spark boxes and "electronics". And when most everyone figured out that they were nothing but junk, they had to change their name to "Speedmaster" and invent a back-story about starting in 1979 in an independent speed-shop--completely bypassing the years of Procomp disasters.

There is--maybe--another company, suspiciously using the Pro Comp name. They may--or may not--be related to Procomp Electronics. I don't have a good feeling about them; they have to be aware that Procomp existed and was crap.

At any rate, I hope you have photos of the blown brake hose(s), and kept the broken item as evidence. That needs to be refunded or otherwise made right, AND you need to file a complaint with the NHTSA because this is a safety-critical item. The Government needs to investigate how "DOT Compliant" parts failed in-use.
 
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Erik the Awful

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The Government needs to investigate how "DOT Compliant" parts failed in-use.
You're assuming that Procomp is claiming DOT approved. Procomp is only a name brand in the same way that Harbor Freight is a name brand. They're cheap, but you have to be careful about what you're buying.
 
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