Yes, the springs have to be clocked in place. In time they will seat them selfs but there is a proper place for them to sit into.
Suspension Upgrades
- Thread starter 97C1500TJ
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97C1500TJ
I'm Awesome
That doesn’t look to be a bad job at all. I’m definitely not looking for the rack and pinion feel with the truck. There’s just room for improvement.
Well your 1997 springs are 24 years old. This kit above is a 4/1 spring. Yours are probably 3/1. I’d go for all new shackles at least. Getting bolts out just to replace bushings might not be possible depending on decay. This is the 3/1 kit.
97C1500TJ
I'm Awesome
I carefully got them seated in the right orientation but maybe it’s not the coil springs popping. I don’t see what else it could be though. It’s not at high speeds but going over a simple speed bump.
97C1500TJ
I'm Awesome
My truck is dry as a bone here in AL. I’ve still got a lot of the wax on the frame. I wouldn’t mind the 4/1 though.
Unless you lifted front that 4/1 kit alone wouldn’t dramatically increase your rake. But you would love it and then probably lift your front!
Too new for the OEM shaft that uses a U-joint instead of the hateful rag joint. Older trucks can slide a C3500HD shaft in there that totally fixes this. But not your vehicle.
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There's a zillion-page thread about converting the rag joint to a U-joint; and supposedly there's a solution for the trucks like yours--but I don't remember what it is.
XJ Steering Shaft Upgrade (88-94 Trucks) 95+instructions on page 31
Hey all, Read about this in one of ChrisAU's threads. Thought I'd detail it out. This is a super easy swap to eliminate a butt load of steering slop. Minus my learning curve the basic swap took about 20 min. The shafts that fit are 84-00 Jeep Cherokee XJ steering shafts. They are almost a...
www.gmt400.com
WHAT, exactly was replaced? What was inspected and kept?
Control arm bushings? Rubber, or Polyurethane?
Sway-bar bushings and end-links? Rubber, or Polyurethane?
Idler and Pitman arms? All four tie rod ends? All four ball joints? Wheel bearings repacked and adjusted properly?
I can absolutely guarantee that before I bought another steering box--either a poor-reputation "mass-market rebuilt" from a parts store, OR a "good reputation" specialty rebuilt from Red Top or Green Bottom or Blue Bolts or whatever--I would take my existing box, and verify the two adjustments.
This should be do-able on the vehicle since you're pulling the lower steering shaft off to deal with the rag joint anyway.
The adjustment on the input shaft near the rag joint is done first, THEN the easy one on the top of the box. See your service manual for details.
And it's worth checking the frame rail near your steering box. They can get terribly rusted-out, which means the steering box is wiggling around on a flexible, unsafe section of framerail.
Nad_Yvalhosert
I'm Awesome
And after all the front end is thoroughly rechecked, all bushings ae inspected, and spring position is verified, I'd like to see a print out of the alignment specs.
Your first post mentioned wander and pull. Theres a hidden measurement that a "more than competant" alignment tech will check. Front axle setback. Its similar to rear thrust angle.
The front end needs to be perpendicular to the frame centerline. If it's not, even setting the alignment perfectly at spec, the truck will still want to pull.
I had a truck last week that had a positive 0.24 setback. That means the front will always drive into the ditch.
So I put an extra quarter degree of caster to compensate. Yes the truck was technically out of spec, but caster doesn't wear tires. Lastly, the customer is happy. That's the most important part.
Your first post mentioned wander and pull. Theres a hidden measurement that a "more than competant" alignment tech will check. Front axle setback. Its similar to rear thrust angle.
The front end needs to be perpendicular to the frame centerline. If it's not, even setting the alignment perfectly at spec, the truck will still want to pull.
I had a truck last week that had a positive 0.24 setback. That means the front will always drive into the ditch.
So I put an extra quarter degree of caster to compensate. Yes the truck was technically out of spec, but caster doesn't wear tires. Lastly, the customer is happy. That's the most important part.
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97C1500TJ
I'm Awesome
I’ve replaced all bushings with new rubber in the control arms and new ball joints. Wish I went poly on the bushings. Pitman arm is still original. It would NOT come off the steering box. I’ve got a new Moog in the box to put on but I’m afraid I’ll damage my steering box if I try any more. Sway bar end links and main bushings are replaced with new Moog rubber bushings. Wheel bearings are new as of two weeks ago and adjusted properly. I did put AC Delco Advantage tie rods on and they are a POS. I’m ordering new Moogs.Too new for the OEM shaft that uses a U-joint instead of the hateful rag joint. Older trucks can slide a C3500HD shaft in there that totally fixes this. But not your vehicle.
You must be registered for see images attach
There's a zillion-page thread about converting the rag joint to a U-joint; and supposedly there's a solution for the trucks like yours--but I don't remember what it is.
XJ Steering Shaft Upgrade (88-94 Trucks) 95+instructions on page 31
Hey all, Read about this in one of ChrisAU's threads. Thought I'd detail it out. This is a super easy swap to eliminate a butt load of steering slop. Minus my learning curve the basic swap took about 20 min. The shafts that fit are 84-00 Jeep Cherokee XJ steering shafts. They are almost a...
WHAT, exactly was replaced? What was inspected and kept?
Control arm bushings? Rubber, or Polyurethane?
Sway-bar bushings and end-links? Rubber, or Polyurethane?
Idler and Pitman arms? All four tie rod ends? All four ball joints? Wheel bearings repacked and adjusted properly?
I can absolutely guarantee that before I bought another steering box--either a poor-reputation "mass-market rebuilt" from a parts store, OR a "good reputation" specialty rebuilt from Red Top or Green Bottom or Blue Bolts or whatever--I would take my existing box, and verify the two adjustments.
This should be do-able on the vehicle since you're pulling the lower steering shaft off to deal with the rag joint anyway.
The adjustment on the input shaft near the rag joint is done first, THEN the easy one on the top of the box. See your service manual for details.
And it's worth checking the frame rail near your steering box. They can get terribly rusted-out, which means the steering box is wiggling around on a flexible, unsafe section of framerail.
As for my steering box, it is pretty leaky and I have not made any adjustments in it. As leaky as it is, I’d prefer to swap in a new one but a good quality one is quite expensive. Where it mounts to is not rusty. There’s very little rust on the frame at all.
So for a total list of what was replaced:
Upper and lower ball joints
Inner and outer tie rods
Coil springs
Coil spring insulator
Control arm bushings (rubber)
Idler arm
Sway bar bushings and end links (rubber)
Front shocks (Dual piston)
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97C1500TJ
I'm Awesome
I am definitely not that competent in our alignment rack for that. Ours doesn’t even show a caster adjustment for my truck. I tried adjusting the toe slightly inward but still in spec and that definitely helps. It’s in the gray on our display monitor. I’m sure yours is a Hunter just as ours is. I’ll try to get a copy of the print out. I’m one of two techs in my department so I stay pretty busy!
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