Suburban down.

[454cid]

I've noticed that a lot of brass fittings have a maximum temperature that's less than what I'd want in my cooling system. I bought a nice brass fitting at Menard's and noticed the low spec, and emailed the company asking about it, since my pressure would be super low. They said that they stand by their rating, so I didn't use it..... of course, I was probably talking to a customer service person giving a standard answer and not an engineer.

 

[SUBURBAN5]

I've noticed that a lot of brass fittings have a maximum temperature that's less than what I'd want in my cooling system. I bought a nice brass fitting at Menard's and noticed the low spec, and emailed the company asking about it, since my pressure would be super low. They said that they stand by their rating, so I didn't use it..... of course, I was probably talking to a customer service person giving a standard answer and not an engineer.

Didnt think about that but I've soldered on brass fittings before

 

[454cid]

Every rebuilt Ford cast iron V-8 I've been around wants to run warm, the headache rack was an attempt to keep it cool......

So that's some major outside of the box thinking...... mounted on top of the box, to be precise

 

[454cid]

Didnt think about that but I've soldered on brass fittings before

I think the rated temp was right about normal coolant temperature, but that gives no room for an overheating condition. If the fitting is splitting/connecting a hose away from the engine, it would probably be fine, since the temp would be a bit less, but I was wanting a fitting to screw into the waterpump, so it would get blasted with the full temperature..... still might be fine, but I wanted to play it a bit safer.

 

[R422b]

I think the rated temp was right about normal coolant temperature, but that gives no room for an overheating condition. If the fitting is splitting/connecting a hose away from the engine, it would probably be fine, since the temp would be a bit less, but I was wanting a fitting to screw into the waterpump, so it would get blasted with the full temperature..... still might be fine, but I wanted to play it a bit safer.

Cast iron has better fatigue resistance anyway especially if you go to a real pro plumbing store and get the expensive ones. I think they might be forged.

Talking about GMT400s using Tapatalk
"Is this before or after you fired the parts cannon at it?" - Supercharged111

 

[454cid]

Cast iron has better fatigue resistance anyway especially if you go to a real pro plumbing store and get the expensive ones. I think they might be forged.

I was shopping for a hose barb..... 1/2" pipe thread on one end, and 3/4" or 5/8" barb on the other. I've never seen anything like that in iron. The only iron fittings I've seen had an iron clamp on them, and were for reinforced hose from an old steam Jenny.... they were big bulky and completely overkill for automotive.

 

[R422b]

I was shopping for a hose barb..... 1/2" pipe thread on one end, and 3/4" or 5/8" barb on the other. I've never seen anything like that in iron. The only iron fittings I've seen had an iron clamp on them, and were for reinforced hose from an old steam Jenny.... they were big bulky and completely overkill for automotive.

Yeah that might be hard to find. [emoji16]

Talking about GMT400s using Tapatalk
"Is this before or after you fired the parts cannon at it?" - Supercharged111

 

[Pinger]

Didnt think about that but I've soldered on brass fittings before

Radiators used to be made from soldered brass. Solder wont melt below around 275C (527F) and brazing rods need a lot more than that.

 

[SUBURBAN5]

Radiators used to be made from soldered brass. Solder wont melt below around 275C (527F) and brazing rods need a lot more than that.

Yeah that's how I feel. Takes a good amount of heat to melt lol. Although brass is very soft and breaks easily

 

[SUBURBAN5]

Almost ready to yank out.

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