The real problem with Escalade interior is WEARING unless like I mentioned you actually get dirty and bringing it into the truck.
The work I do requires that I be clean. The shop, too.
Two tool boxes. One for mechanical only. The other just for upholstery.
Even keeping the mechanical tools pretty clean, short of wiping everything with acetone everytime, they still have that thin, thin layer of oil on 'em. Enough to cause problems when working with leather. @ $12.00+/sq.ft. or $206.00/linear yard. (36"x 54") Small oops's can get expensive.
Leather of any color doesn't like bearing grease! Engine oil. Rust dust gets right into the pores.
Bring light colored hides into the shop & I get all mother-bear protective.
"Yea! It IS nice leather. But, puhleeease,...just...stop! STOP! Stop petting it with yer grubby mitts!"
I've actually asked girls/ladies/women if they would remove their shoes before getting in some of the vehicles I've had.
"Seriously?"
"Uhh, yea. I spent 4 hours earlier today, detailing every inch of this interior getting ready for you & this date tonight."
"Really? Take off my shoes?"
"Dem's da rules. But don't worry. We'll work up to removing more after dinner."
Some got in. Some didn't.
My kids an wife make the most mess!!
Wife sent down the road. Kid's are grown.
Sooo...have this guy.
Hair-shedding/mess-making/problem child/co-pilot.
Non-destructive but there's got to be some kind of industrial use for the nose goo & slobber. Stuff's tenacious.
Having short hair doesn't mean he sheds any less. Stuff collects everywhere, in the tiniest nooks & crannies.
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hot water with a good towel does most of the cleaning! I just juiced them up for the first time ever “leather condition” in my 11yrs ownership!
That's the best way to maintain leather.
Never anything stronger than a weak mix of mild soap. ('Ivory' is a pure soap. 1 tbsp to a gallon + a couple of drops of vinegar.)
No ammonia. (Windex) No petroleum based cleaners. No detergents.
When a 'conditioner' is required, don't use the cheap chit.
Most of those use a base of paraffin wax, which clogs the leather's pores, preventing it from breathing, (Leather is a fiber, not a textile.) and the wax retains dirt.
Use automotive specific conditioners. Hides for automotive have undergone a different tanning process than boot/belt/purse leather.
It's the fine dirt that's on the surface of leather that wears the surface away as it gets worked around when sat on. Wax-based conditioners hold that dirt.
Avoid anything advertised as a 'Conditioner
and Waterproofer'. That's wax.
Look for products containing natural oils.
Once a year or once a month. Depends on geo-location. Where the vehicle gets parked. (Garage? Car port? Edge of the desert directly under the sun, 12 months a year?)
How much seat time is put in?
High heat & low humidity dries leather.
I like Murphy's Oil Soap as a cleaner.
Leather Honey (The favorite!) or Lexol for a conditioner.
Chemical Guys & Meguiar's Gold Class make better than average leather treatments.
Granger's & Nu also have some good auto specific conditioners.
The better the product (more $$$, of course!) the less often it has to be applied.
Steering Wheels!
www.thehogring.com
