stuck throttle = dead engine? ???

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

Dusnoetos

Newbie
Joined
Oct 30, 2018
Messages
17
Reaction score
2
Location
55130
(Brand new here....HELLO!)
~Concerning a1998 C2500 with Vortec 5.7L ~
Yesterday while driving at 60mph with cruse on the truck started to accelerate out of control!!! Tried to turn off cruse - no change. Hit brakes - nope! Ended up throwing it in to neutral turned off engine with key and was able to (safely) get to shoulder and stop. (From middle lane in heavy traffic!)
Thinking the Cruse control was at fault, I pulled the fuse. Restarted engine only for it to immediately race like a bat out of hell! Killed engine then decided to poke around under hood. I found the throttle body valve stuck open ~but the two cables going to accelerator pedal and cruse module did not seem to be catching. After checking everything I could think of engine started normally......BUT.....now it is running like crap. It also seems that the Transmission has gone in to 'limp mode' , does not want to shift out of 2nd. Engine is Sluggish - no power and kinda 'rattles' like a diesel. And wants to stall out (as if it had a carb with idle set to low).
I am not sure where to start trouble shooting?
Could this be caused by a bad T.P.S.?
Engine dead?
Any help would be great!
 
Last edited:

Dusnoetos

Newbie
Joined
Oct 30, 2018
Messages
17
Reaction score
2
Location
55130
One more thing...
Used my cheep scan tool and got these 3 codes:
P0404
P1345
P0160

ANY help would be AWESOME
 

Dusnoetos

Newbie
Joined
Oct 30, 2018
Messages
17
Reaction score
2
Location
55130
Thanks! You are totally corect.
The truck is a 1998.

(Original post edited)
 

Dusnoetos

Newbie
Joined
Oct 30, 2018
Messages
17
Reaction score
2
Location
55130
Well I had to work on a few other things for a few days and finely got back to the truck.
Well I Went ahead and changed out the Throttle Position sensor. I cleaned out the EGR valve (it was seized). I used some electronic contact cleaner on every connector I could easily reach.
Well my minor fiddling did cause 2 codes to go away - P0404 (exhaust gas recirculation) and P0160 (bank 2 sensor 2 oxygen sensor circuit)

Well none the less the P1345 code (Crankshaft Position-Camshaft Position Correlation) Is still there. From what minimal research I have had time to do, could explain why my engine is running like crud.

Since I just cant afford to throw money at the problem and start replacing parts until I determine if a part is actually bad. SO... Does anyone know how to test the Camshaft and Crank sensors? (at minimum what are the proper electrical tolerances I can check with my multi-meter).

Now if the sensors check out good, what mechanical stuff should I start to check. How does one check the Timing on the 5.7 vortec?

Any other ideas???
 

east302

I'm Awesome
Joined
Oct 4, 2013
Messages
3,416
Reaction score
3,138
Location
Jackson, MS
Has the distributor been removed lately? That’s usually what triggers that code.

To reset the CMP offset, you’ll need a good scanner that can read the CMP Retard or download an app and use a Bluetooth adapter.

https://www.gmt400.com/threads/car-gauge-pro-can-read-cmp.35275/

You’ll loosen the distributor hold down clamp and twist the distributor until the reading is zero degrees, plus or minus two, at around 1100-rpm. Then tighten the clamp down and that’s it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Joined
Jul 6, 2017
Messages
26
Reaction score
0
Location
Mahopac ny
If there is s timing issue with cam/crank correlation and the distributor was never touch during your trouble shooting then check for a stretch timing chain. Remove distributor cap and with engine at top dead center turn it back counter clockwise to before top dead center and see how many degrees the crank shaft moves before the distributor rotor starts to turn. If it moved a lot before moving rotor then you have a stretch timing chain if it only moved like 5 degrees before top dead center then your ok.
 

CrustyJunker

Is STILL Here?
Joined
May 20, 2012
Messages
553
Reaction score
382
Location
Indiana, USA
Well I had to work on a few other things for a few days and finely got back to the truck.
Well I Went ahead and changed out the Throttle Position sensor. I cleaned out the EGR valve (it was seized). I used some electronic contact cleaner on every connector I could easily reach.
Well my minor fiddling did cause 2 codes to go away - P0404 (exhaust gas recirculation) and P0160 (bank 2 sensor 2 oxygen sensor circuit)

Well none the less the P1345 code (Crankshaft Position-Camshaft Position Correlation) Is still there. From what minimal research I have had time to do, could explain why my engine is running like crud.

Since I just cant afford to throw money at the problem and start replacing parts until I determine if a part is actually bad. SO... Does anyone know how to test the Camshaft and Crank sensors? (at minimum what are the proper electrical tolerances I can check with my multi-meter).

Now if the sensors check out good, what mechanical stuff should I start to check. How does one check the Timing on the 5.7 vortec?

Any other ideas???

If the crankshaft-camshaft correlation code persists, usually only two things can cause it:

Check your distributor gear. If the teeth are thin, it needs to be replaced. My Tahoe did this a few times and every time the teeth were worn heavy only on one side. Be sure that the distributor is in the same place that it was removed - otherwise it won't start. I recommend doing this first because it's a little less mess than the second job.

Other thing is timing set. The old books used to say if you had more than 5/8" slack, replace the set. I did my old Tahoe at 142,000, and it was right at that mark where it was a good idea. Timing covers are also plastic on these models and it is recommended to replace them at the same time. Bad news is that you'll also probably tear the oil pan gasket when removing the timing cover (if it hasn't been done recently), so you might wanna anticipate that, too.
 

CrustyJunker

Is STILL Here?
Joined
May 20, 2012
Messages
553
Reaction score
382
Location
Indiana, USA
Don't be intimidated. I did mine in a pinch out in the dead of winter trying to get my check engine light off before emissions testing (check engine light is an automatic fail, no pass = no plates). Just trying to save you multiple trips to the parts store or waiting for a gasket to come in the mail!

If you need help, we'll be here. I'm not the fastest responder, but this is a semi-common problem and lots of us have dealt with it. If it's nothing exotic, chances are we can walk you through it. Good luck!
 
Top