Struggling to crank

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densobro

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Been using gmt400.com for years as a resource but just decided to make an account because I’m stumped on something. And I’m not sure if I’m doing this right.
Any ways 1996 gmc k1500 5.7.
New GM 5.7 vortec installed last week.
New 4l60e transmission installed last week by my local shop.
New battery, new alternator, new distributor, new wires and plugs all installed by me.
So when I went to pick up the truck from the shop last week, I was in the waiting room while my wife was in the parking lot waiting on me because she dove me there, after I paid they brought the truck around front with the truck running. My wife texted me and said she seen them jump the truck off to start it. So as I was paying I asked them did they just have to jump it off. The main guy said yes the battery must be bad. I wasn’t worried because it had been sitting for about a month. They also said the shifter cable prolly need to be tightened because the gear selector wasn’t showing the correct gear (even tho they just replace the tranny)…
So after driving the truck a couple days, the struggling to start problem turned into not starting at all until after 5 try’s.
It only clicks sometimes, then other it will actually crank but super slow and drawn out. Got it to crank and when to autozone to get the battery tested just cause, the guy used a scan tool on the battery and had me crank it. He said the battery was 100% good, even the alternator. But the starter is weak. So I bought a new starter. Just installed it last night had no problems doing it everything Gil like a glove and I made sure the starter had the same tooth count. Wires and connections tight and clean, even used a wire brush on the spades. Struggled to crank last night but brushed it off cuz I was tired and fired the battery was almost dead.
Got off work a couple hours ago and came home and tried to crank the truck and same struggle problem. Drive the the truck to a gas station 2 miles down the road to give the alternator a chance to charge the battery just in case that’s the problem, parked it in the gas station parking lot and let the truck sit for a second. Tried to crank it again and same thing. Long drawn out start. Starter immediately starts to rotate but it’s a slow rotation then eventually speeds up and cranks. But not sure what path to take now, money is tight.
Anyone else have this problem before or have any advice?
 

densobro

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That will definitely be my main next project Monday when I’m off work for a couple days, I already have some heavy duty sick welding lead wire that’s thick.
I’m just wondering in the mean time is there something else that could be the problem that I’m missing?
 

JOHNGAAA1

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As mentioned hundreds of times here. The number one cause of slow crank, click, no start, are the side terminals dirty or loose, and not checking "THE BIG THREE" grounds. Also change the battery ends and make sure you have the correct spacer or you will never get them tight. They degrade over time because they are soft.
 

densobro

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The big three, Definitely something I’ve planned on doing forever now but never got around to it, that’ll be the next thing I do Monday, thanks
 

HotWheelsBurban

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Also the battery cables rot/corrode inside the insulation where you can't see it. That can also cause this problem. On my Burb a couple years ago, it was doing the " no start when hot" BS, and replacing one cable, cleaning the other two, and tightening the small ignition terminal on the starter solenoid fixed it.
 

densobro

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Thanks guys I haven’t had to deal with a problem like this since my wore out 93 Sierra had a loose battery terminal that screws into the battery. Never replaced the battery, just fought it for a couple years. I was only 17 and didn’t know the difference between metric and standard tools.
But with the truck I have now, the negative copper cable is tarnished pretty good and is a little green so it’s definitely time to replace all that entirely.
 

densobro

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I upgraded the battery ground to chassis and grounded the paint off where it bolts up to, also replaced the bolt.
The motor to battery ground was in great shape, just cleaned the contacts up.
The positive battery to alternator was in great shape, I replaced it when I replaced the alternator about 2 months ago.
the positive to fuse box and the positive to starter where good to just clean the contacts real good.
Also used a wire wheel in a drill and cleaned the battery posts and the both of the battery terminal connectors.
I got under the truck and checked out the direct motor ground strap attached to the passenger side head, and it was a flat stainless braided type that was brand new, must’ve been replaced along with the old motor.
Anyways it started rainy here a couple minutes ago so I cleaned up and put all the tools away and when I went to crank the truck, same problem.
It turns over but not freely. It sounds like the very first rotation of the starter is nice and quick, but the second is super slow, then the third is a tiny bit faster and the fourth is a little faster than that, it just gradually speed up until the truck starts up. I let the truck run for a second and cut it off and tested again and it’s the same thing every time. The truck actually cranks ever time but it’s definitely not like it should be.
So as I was testing all this out I noticed a MASSIVE snake hanging from my gutter so I kinda got caught up in trying to catch said snake and got soaking wet in the rain and came back inside. Never got the snake but boy what an adventure.
Anyways still stumped on the truck. I’m debating going back to advanced auto parts where I got the battery alternator and starter and having them scan everything again and see what they get on their scan tool this time.
 

Erik the Awful

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I applaud you tackling the correct issues. Unfortunately, those terminals, used as designed, are hot garbage. I recommend getting your hands on a crimper and some good terminals and some heat shrink.

Also, I really need to clean the top of my battery.

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