Strange running habits, need help.

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Dover

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I’m far from an expert, but to me that video sounds more like an air/fuel problem than it does exhaust. Could still be a malfunction in the EGR but I would personally check and clean the IAC valve and do an IAC relearn before throwing parts at it. I agree that pulling the OBD data stream would be good, but I don’t have that ability either, so just saying what I would check if it was my truck.


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PlayingWithTBI

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The light doesn't stay on, it only comes on after it happens and eventually goes away. Plus, I have a 1994 so its the old OBD1
The light may go out but it should store the code for ~30 key cycles. TunerPro RT v5 can data log OBD1 trucks using an ALDL to USB cable or, any scanner like the "Red Brick" can do it too. Here's a screen shot from my 88 using TunerPro when I was getting surging due to a bad ICM

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http://www.tunerpro.net/

http://aldlcable.com/aldl.asp
 

texas tough

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O2 sensor might be getting lazy and not signalling computer to trim fuel. pull the codes with a paper clip and report back.
the 02 regulates fuel flow in closed loop. along with other things.. for 18.00 I would try it, if its old, it will be good as a preventive maintenance anyway.
the smoke u see, on 0ccasion, especially when warm, could be worn valve stem seals.. whe n they warm up, oil leaks past the seals, and when u start it up, like after getting gas, it shoots a puff of blue smoke out the pipes.
water is a natural by product of combustion.
if u have a vaccum gauge u can test for a blocked cat converter.
on a hard rev, vac should drop hard, then quickly come back up. if it creeps up slowly, theres a blockage.
 

24 Karat Brown

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O2 sensor might be getting lazy and not signalling computer to trim fuel. pull the codes with a paper clip and report back.
the 02 regulates fuel flow in closed loop. along with other things.. for 18.00 I would try it, if its old, it will be good as a preventive maintenance anyway.
the smoke u see, on 0ccasion, especially when warm, could be worn valve stem seals.. whe n they warm up, oil leaks past the seals, and when u start it up, like after getting gas, it shoots a puff of blue smoke out the pipes.
water is a natural by product of combustion.
if u have a vaccum gauge u can test for a blocked cat converter.
on a hard rev, vac should drop hard, then quickly come back up. if it creeps up slowly, theres a blockage.

I’m sure the white smoke was just standing water, it’s not doing that anymore. Is there some good engine treatment I can use for now to keep it in good shape for the time being? Im gonna have my whole exhaust re-done, it’s rusted all to hell. I’ll check the sensor then. I do need to check and clean my TBI still, and I’m going to completely remove the EGR
 

Redneckgeriatric

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run away from the engine treatment. fix the exhaust first. short chitty pipe allows reversion which tricks sensors, the short video of start and idle is not going to show any evidence of blockage. if the video shows your entire problem , then forget the blockage thing as a poor discription. focus on fixing exhaust, you need that anyway. then if still a problem, holler back. egr is your friend.
 

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run away from the engine treatment. fix the exhaust first. short chitty pipe allows reversion which tricks sensors, the short video of start and idle is not going to show any evidence of blockage. if the video shows your entire problem , then forget the blockage thing as a poor discription. focus on fixing exhaust, you need that anyway. then if still a problem, holler back. egr is your friend.

Why should I keep egr? We dont have emissions where I am and plus its 25 now. My exhaust now is stock manifolds and y-pipe with one cat, into a single in dual out muffler and thats all. Should I remove my cat? I plan on ditching the whole system eventually in favor of long tubes, h-pipe, and maybe glasspacks(?). I hate clapping. But either way is this issue to do with the exhaust or not?
 

Redneckgeriatric

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we dont know what your issue is. the facts keep evading us. tell more and be methodical, a chitty exhaust that needs replacing , suddenly turning into a stock exhaust, it goes from smoke, decel rich running, loping,etc: and becomes a rich idle problem that cures itself in a matter of seconds?

maybe start over with symptoms and when they occur?
 

texas tough

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if u delete the EGR, you will have a perpetual check engine light.. and wont know if u have a problem. every so oftenm computer tests EGR.. IT opens the egr, sees if the 02 sensor picks it up,, if not check engine light comes on,., if someone can figure out how to fool the computer, when it dooes this test, it would be great.. im wondering if the hole was mostly closed off in the egr port, by making a metal gasket, with just a small passage, to allow just enough exhaust to pass thru during the test to satisfy the computer.
 

PlayingWithTBI

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There are "patches" developed by others in the .bin file that can eliminate the EGR routine plus you can go into the "flags" section in the parameter tree and disable the SES light for it. Here's an example from a 1227747 ECM

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df2x4

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^X2, pretty sure it's even easier to tune EGR out on the '96+ black box PCMs. Which you absolutely need to do on any of these trucks if you remove or disable the EGR, otherwise you'll have the potential for detonation/pinging at part throttle.
 
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