Still fighting front end issues, brake issues, lots of time and money invested.

[James2406]

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Hopefully someone in here has had this issue before, three shops and no solution. Having a brake issue I'm going to attempt to solve this weekend, here is a list of new parts to help you all narrow it down.

New Transmission and Torque Converter by Overhaulin Transmission of Savannah Georgia.
New rebuilt drum brakes, front rotors and pads, calipers aren't locked up, new wheel bearings.
New brake reservoir.
All new A/C lines, condenser, filter, Evap and Heater Core, compressor, blows hot and cold.
New front end steering, pitman arm, idler arm, center link, inner and outer tie rods. AC Delco and Moog only, all greasable and greased up.
New upper and lower control arms both sides.
New Upper and lower ball joints Mevotech TTX's both sides, greasable and greased up.
BellTech 3 inch lowering springs and Street shocks up front.
New BellTech 4 inch drop shackles and hangers, and belltech lowering shocks around back.
BellTech transmission carrier bearing spacers to fix driveshaft angle.
New AC Delco carrier bearing.
New spicer ujoints from the yoke to the transmission tail shaft.
Custom shortened and balanced driveshaft by Powertrain of Savannah Georgia.
New 235/75/R15's GT Radial HWY Terrain's, road force Balanced.
Fresh alignment after tire install, tracks straight down the road.

Only issue is the rag joint is shot on the steering shaft. Ordering a universal joint shaft from Cunningham machine asap.

With all this ABS light cycles on and off, randomly. Front right rotor seems to have warped overnight after the new tires got installed. after solving all the issues with the driveshaft and the new tires. I bled the brakes but apparently the ABS modulator/Accumulator needs a scan tool to initiate the bleed. I've seen online there is a manual bleed with two valves on the Accumulator. Oddly enough as well the "warped" rotor is passenger front but it's not completely consistent. Diagnosing intermittent issues sucks taint.

Also, there is a weird what feels like a bad wheel bearing but it's very faint coming from the gas pedal. The damn wheel bearings are brand new and have no play. I'm going to inspect when I replace this rotor and bleed the brakes.

 

[Drunkcanuk]

Nice clean truck there, always liked that green. As for bleeding the abs, I don't know if it's the same as a Harley, but I'm cheap and don't want to pay them $200 plus just for them to cycle the abs with the computer. So a "hack" for that is most of us just find a gravel road and lock the brakes up a few times, gets whatever fluid is in there out and into the main line and bleed normally after that.
And I am sure someone smarter will chime in, mines a 91 so only has the rear abs.
Good luck

 

[Mech_Lyfe]

That’s a nice truck and a nice list of new parts. Now, let’s do some checking. Have you checked all of your wires to the sensors at the wheels? Be sure there isn’t anything pinched, or chafed. At the abs module, make sure the plug is good and clean, make sure that it has both power and good ground.

tip:you can bleed the brakes, when the abs light comes on, after a few pumps of the brake pedal, disconnect the battery, wait a few and go at it again. Worked on my 95

 

[Bnixon]

I had issues with the front brakes on my 94 suburban and after replacing the entire system found that the abs module was the issue. I got a second one from the pick a part and it fixed the issue with hard pulling to one side but I still couldn't bleed all the air out and had a fading pedal. Turned out to be the ABS module again. eventually removed the abs module completely and reworked the brake lines and now it is easy to bleed and the pedal feel is stable and consistent. And most of all my brakes stop really well now without the butt clinch I had before. There is a procedure to manually bleed the module but after my experience, I would just delete it and move on.