Steering gear

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Steven Petersen

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I was able to get a helper to work my steering wheel while I looked at the linkage. Rag joint is tight as can be, zero slop. All linkage from pitman arm to each wheel is tight as well. The slop is in the steering gear. I seem to remember a post about a way to tighten it up? Or do I just need to get another unit?
 

b454rat

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can tighten it a lil bit, but guess only lil wiggle room. I'd have to look at it too see where it is, but its a jam nut with a set screw in the middle.
 

PlayingWithTBI

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can tighten it a lil bit, but guess only lil wiggle room.
You can try to tighten it, sometimes it helps. Be carefull, only tighten it about 1/4 turn then drive around and turn the wheel lock to lock. See if it helps and go another 1/4 turn. Too tight and you'll crack the housing. YMMV

I'd have to look at it too see where it is, but its a jam nut with a set screw in the middle.
Yes, it's on top of the gear box, a hex nut and an Allen set screw.
 

Supercharged111

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You can try to tighten it, sometimes it helps. Be carefull, only tighten it about 1/4 turn then drive around and turn the wheel lock to lock. See if it helps and go another 1/4 turn. Too tight and you'll crack the housing. YMMV

I think I ended up 2 full turns tighter than stock with zero binding before I just chickened out and left it. Box still has slop. I'd initially set it up on the bench by the book and it sucked, so reverted to feel to get it better. Bearing preload makes a huge difference in feel and that one is very readily apparent when you've gone too far.

Yes, it's on top of the gear box, a hex nut and an Allen set screw.
 

Vikingdude

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There are two places to adjust. The hex key and nut on top is the worm gear backlash, and there is a lock ring and pin spanner adjustment on the face of the box that the intermediate shaft attaches to. Both should be adjusted if possible, which is easiest with the box out of the truck.

I did both on mine, and it improved, but wasn't perfect. It was "good enough" to get by until I ordered a box from redhead.
 

Supercharged111

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There are two places to adjust. The hex key and nut on top is the worm gear backlash, and there is a lock ring and pin spanner adjustment on the face of the box that the intermediate shaft attaches to. Both should be adjusted if possible, which is easiest with the box out of the truck.

I did both on mine, and it improved, but wasn't perfect. It was "good enough" to get by until I ordered a box from redhead.

Input bearing preload is easy enough to set by feel in the truck. Pop the cover back and go to town with a hammer and screwdriver. Helps to mark it all before you start swinging.
 

Steven Petersen

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I see the procedure for making both adjustments in my manual. It also says something like “adjusting on vehicle strongly discouraged”. . I went ahead and tightened the Allen in small increments until I got all the slop out. I estimate it was about 1/8 turn total.
 

Supercharged111

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I see the procedure for making both adjustments in my manual. It also says something like “adjusting on vehicle strongly discouraged”. . I went ahead and tightened the Allen in small increments until I got all the slop out. I estimate it was about 1/8 turn total.

That's because you can't measure the rotational torque needed to pass through center on the vehicle. It's more for the over center adjustment than the input bearing.
 

Supercharged111

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Do you think I’m at risk of splitting the case with the 1/8 turn of the screw?

Like I said, I went in about 2 full turns and all is well. I've always heard it'll bind if you crank it down too far, splitting the case is a new one for me. I went all summer with no binding, so I must be halfway close. I initially set it up on the bench, but the bearing preload got set too tight which left the over center too loose. I've since relieved bearing preload on the vehicle and added over center preload. The feel of a tighter input bearing makes the whole front end feel newer. I still need to back the input just a tiny smidge and it'll feel just right. Conversely, the dually needs a bit of preload added to it's input as it feels loose and lifeless in comparison.
 
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