Steel Braided Brake lines.

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someotherguy

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Oh for sure; if your hoses are bad, or even just original (they'll be bad soon enough), no harm in replacing with braided. I've done it, too. Just cautioning anybody against expecting magic out of hoses.

Richard
 

Ben Burrage

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Upgrade your Master cylinder to the NBS, to eliminate squishy brakes. Skyjacker also makes braided hoses for 4x4 trucks. I installed the NBS MC and braided lines, and now I'm having to relearn how to drive my truck. Tremendous difference in braking power!
 

Big D

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You won't notice any difference due to braided lines vs. rubber lines. What you may notice difference from would be a fully bled system after having swapped lines. :D Or of course if the rubber lines were bad, that wouldn't necessarily cause squishiness.. but dragging/pulling brakes.

Richard

I have multiple issues, I figured might as well swap out the original Rubber lines, while im at it. I definitely have Dragging brakes on the passenger front.

Upgrade your Master cylinder to the NBS, to eliminate squishy brakes. Skyjacker also makes braided hoses for 4x4 trucks. I installed the NBS MC and braided lines, and now I'm having to relearn how to drive my truck. Tremendous difference in braking power!

The NBS master cylinder bolts right up?
 

df2x4

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The NBS master cylinder bolts right up?

Just FYI there have been a few threads recently where discussion has determined that the NBS master swap isn't really as straight forward as people make it out to be, and in some situations may actually make things worse. I know some people swear by it but IMO sticking with the OEM master cylinder is a much better idea.

Both of my '97s (JB5 and JB6 brakes) are using all factory parts except pad/rotor/shoe upgrades and I have no complaints. The brakes in my Suburban were pretty squishy at one point but a good bleed with a scan tool solved that.
 

10mm Nut

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I'm elbow deep in a full chassis rebuild and lowering install on my most recent truck.

Today I am installing these.

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Schurkey

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1. The so-called "NBS" master cylinder is a friggin' disaster for any GMT400 that has low-drag front calipers.

2. Verify the hose lengths in the Russel kit. I've gotten burned by their boxed-set of brake hoses on other vehicles--rear hose too short, front hoses too long.

3. When I put the "steel braided" brake hoses on my K1500, I had to wrap rubber hose around the control arms or around the steel-braided brake hose. The OEM hoses have a long steel-tube section that routes the hose away from the suspension. The steel-braided hoses don't have the rigid section, they tend to rub on the control arms.

Photo 1. Suspension with steel-braided brake hose. '88 K1500.
http://hbassociates.us/K1500_Front_Suspension_51.jpg
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Photo 2. Close-up of steel-braided brake hose contact with upper control arm.
http://hbassociates.us/K1500_Front_Suspension_52.jpg
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Photo 3. Close-up of rubber wrapped around control arm to prevent abrasion to/from steel-braided brake hose.
http://hbassociates.us/K1500_Front_Suspension_53.jpg
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Cokeman95

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I had no idea Russell made brake line kits for these trucks, I'm going to have to pick some up. I used Russell braided line and fittings when I did the transmission cooler lines for my 4L80E swap in the red truck, very happy with all of it so far. Thanks for the info @10mm Nut!
I've had them on my suburban for several years. No complaints. I want to say it was less than 100 for all 3 flex lines.

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10mm Nut

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Here are pics of them installed on my 2wd.

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What I did was harvest the mounting bracket off of the original rubber hoses so I could bolt the new lines securely to the upper control arms. Please excuse the untidiness of the truck, I'm midway through a chassis overhaul project.

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Poorly lit picture showing the end where it terminates at the caliper.

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