Spyder headlamps.....my take on 'em...and LIGHTING in general

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drewcrew

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cool....and thanks. that S&S SUPER cover was on there temporarily whilst i was cleaning up the 1977 S&S CYCLE cover i had on that particular Super B since 1986....another version had it for a while too. i have 3 S&S carbs on 3 different bikes, an S&S air intake on my '15.


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I had a chrome S&S cover on my 82 FX for 10 years the whole time I owned it. Sold it in 92 and REALLY regret it.
 

deejaaa

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shovelbill

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I had a chrome S&S cover on my 82 FX for 10 years the whole time I owned it. Sold it in 92 and REALLY regret it.

22 years is long time to regret...anything.
buy another shovel....better yet, build one....have a new warm fuzzy feelin.....make new memories. that's what i did when i came home.

for me, regrets are things you might be able to change, but don't....or don't try. then haunt you. sometimes you can't change what's been done.....that's where acceptance comes in.....and forgiveness.....i got a closet full of them tee shirts.

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drewcrew

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22 years is long time to regret...anything.
buy another shovel....better yet, build one....have a new warm fuzzy feelin.....make new memories. that's what i did when i came home.

for me, regrets are things you might be able to change, but don't....or don't try. then haunt you. sometimes you can't change what's been done.....that's where acceptance comes in.....and forgiveness.....i got a closet full of them tee shirts.

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I agree with everything you said. My Harley days are over. Rode 'em for over 40 years but I've some medical issues I'm dealing with now.
 

shovelbill

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the Lamin-X fogged. looks like poop. buffed it once but doesn't last. maybe another product would be better. it's better than shattered glass though.
here's something you might find interesting:
http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/63...diesel-engine/698761-headlight-updgrades.html

ok...that's good to know, thanks for your experience.

LOL....now i have to join that forum to see the pictures, but from what i've read thus far it sounds like the lamp housings are going to be fine....i'm happy for that.....but i want to see his pictures......great thread, good find....thank you.

i always used Cibie E-codes after i learned about them. twas no internet or cell phones back then.....and other supplemental lights, for particular purposes........but it took me a while to figure that out......i spent lots of money on **** i didn't need, but WANTED. it usually didn't do what i wanted....i've learned...i've learned to listen to folks that have done it......and i like to experiment.
 

shovelbill

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joined that Dieselplace....saw the pics......wow, i guess i don't have to post anymore....LMAO....that covers it all!

seeems some folks had fitment issues....i hope it's not the case for me, but time will tell....i'm used to stickin square pegs into round holes.
 
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michael hurd

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HIR bulbs have the exact same filament positioning as the 9005 and 9006 that exist in these trucks. They are very close to being a 'drop in', however the base is slightly different.

http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/yhst-91565365470012_2267_311973

Shovelbill hit the nail on the head, and is on the path to "enLIGHTenment".

More voltage = more lumens. Measure voltage at the headlight plugs, I bet you will be surprised to find the voltage is very dismal. A couple of relays, and a nice harness with large wire and good connectors will minimize the voltage losses, and give you brighter lights.

This chart from Daniel Stern shows the difference that low voltage makes in terms of light output of a 9006:

http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/relays/relays.html

Note, a 10 percent voltage drop results in about 2/3rds of the lumens you bought and paid for.... !!

Old bulbs, while still 'functional', as in making light ( not burned out ) decrease the amount of light output compared to 'as delivered / new'. Old cloudy lenses can be sanded and polished, and this gives you a temporary lease on life, but the housing is nearing it's design life end.

With high mileage and the passage of time, UV degradation starts. The reflectors do not possess the same DOI or reflective quality as they did new. At that point, the lights should be replaced. In the salt belt, we also have problems with the adjusters and retaining pins seizing.

Yep, the drain you were mentioning is present in the stock park / turn housings as well to drain out any moisture that accumulates.

I would not use a film on the headlights or park lights, selective yellow film *filtering out blue* loses about 12 percent of the light - source Daniel Stern:

http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/lights/light_color/light_color.html
http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/lights/light_color/light_color.html
If driving in an area with a lot of gravel roads, if you are worried about headlamp housing breakage, put a few bucks in the budget for new clear lamp housings for the future instead of applying a film.

People buy junk 'fashion' accessories for their vehicles... and a colored film is just that, a fashion accessory.
 

shovelbill

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deejaaa.

i just PMed this guy on a different forum that was linked in the dieselplace one you gave......i'm hoping to hear back from him....i have two mails to Daniel Stern, but this seems like a great option.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=620371

here's what he was selling:
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michael hurd

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Source for genuine HIR1 for high beams:

GM 25770739 ( Toshiba bulb in GM package ) - note Toshiba does not sell these bulbs other than OEM GM and Toyota, previously available in the aftermarket. These are the real deal.

HIR2 for low beams:

GM 23342527 Vosla +30 bulb in GM package )
 
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