Spark Plug Gap 5.7 Vortec

[97Burban57]

I have a 97 burban 1500 2wd 5.7 vortec.
It has 215k miles on it and I swear the plugs look original lol ! I bought it with 214k on it, plugs look kinda rusty. Any issues with removing them from the cast iron heads?
I am looking at some new ngk tr55's and maybe gapping them to around 45 instead of the recommended 60 that they use when the ignition system is brand new! Any advice!?

 

[wirlybird]

One thing that seems to come up is to not try to re-gap the plugs that are at 60. Get plugs at the gap you are looking for.

 

[GoToGuy]

High energy ignition, use proper gap for combustion. Why would you change it? If there's a problem with ignition or other problems, you will get a " eng service light" . Good luck.

 

[JOHNGAAA1]

.060. The gap is preset for the factory. just check them to make sure. Leave the gap alone. The gm gremlin will get you if you mess with it. lol.

 

[AuroraGirl]

factory **tbi** could be put at .045 for reduction of chuggle and other driveability irritations but no idea if that translates to vortec. It DOES apply to early 2000s LS , but no knowledge of it applying for LT1 or Vortec, as I said. I would onlyy consider .045 if you 1) bought them at that if iridium 2) gap them if you had copper 3) you had chuggle you were trying to see if it would help.

 

[Schurkey]

Some plugs are not to be re-gapped. Iridium, for example. You risk breaking the little piece of Iridium off of the electrode. Fine-wire plugs (Platinum or Iridium) are often damaged when the center electrode gets bent accidentally.

I am deeply suspicious of any plug gap spec'ed wider than .045. OK, GM has more testing facilities than I do...but I remember the days of Oldsmobiles spec'ed at .080. Then GM issues a bulletin reducing the gap to .060. Yeah, that helped. .060 was still too damn wide for performance use. Wide plug gaps are hard on coils, caps 'n' rotors, and plug wires.

I would be likely to research spark plug options, to find a plug of the same reach, thread diameter, sealing method (taper or gasket) and heat range...but intended for a .040--.045 gap. Most plugs spec'ed for .060 have long side electrodes that shouldn't be pounded-down to close the gap to .040. You need a plug intended for that ~.040 gap.

Iron heads? Screw 'em out. Not nearly the problem that aluminum heads can be.

 

[AuroraGirl]

Some plugs are not to be re-gapped. Iridium, for example. You risk breaking the little piece of Iridium off of the electrode. Fine-wire plugs (Platinum or Iridium) are often damaged when the center electrode gets bent accidentally.

I am deeply suspicious of any plug gap spec'ed wider than .045. OK, GM has more testing facilities than I do...but I remember the days of Oldsmobiles spec'ed at .080. Then GM issues a bulletin reducing the gap to .060. Yeah, that helped. .060 was still too damn wide for performance use. Wide plug gaps are hard on coils, caps 'n' rotors, and plug wires.

I would be likely to research spark plug options, to find a plug of the same reach, thread diameter, sealing method (taper or gasket) and heat range...but intended for a .040--.045 gap. Most plugs spec'ed for .060 have long side electrodes that shouldn't be pounded-down to close the gap to .040. You need a plug intended for that ~.040 gap.

Iron heads? Screw 'em out. Not nearly the problem that aluminum heads can be.

Idk if you were referencing me but if you were I meant that about the iridiums in my post, if you jsut generally responded then yes. he could get his gap by getting a copper r43ts or whatever the copper standard plug would be and then gap

 

[97Burban57]

Update, my NGK TR55'S came gapped at .055 so i left them at that and installed them. Figured that would be close enough to the stock recommendation but also be slightly less hard on ignition parts being slightly less at .055.

 

[Schurkey]

Likely a good compromise.

 

[HotWheelsBurban]

Sounds good, be sure to use anti seize compound. Not too much, but it'll keep em from getting rusty stuck in the heads.