Some thoughts on mods

[Schurkey]

I used the larger rear brakes included in the 9.5" axle on my K1500 for several years; had no problems. Braking was better than the original brakes, but not so fabulous that I was totally satisfied.

Last summer I began a front-brake conversion to get rid of the small-piston front calipers in favor of the larger-piston calipers from an extended-cab K1500. Later pickups didn't use the small-piston calipers, but the early ones, like my regular-cab K1500 did.

I'm thinking I had JB3 brakes, and upgraded to JB5 calipers and master cylinder/booster. They use the same rotors. The Quick Takeup master cylinder has a larger bore to go along with the bigger caliper pistons, and the booster is larger, too.

The conversion is on hold over the winter. Popped the transmission and walked away in frustration. Things will move forward again come spring.

 

[L31MaxExpress]

You shouldn't need to shorten the driveshaft when only doing the 9.5 conversion. I only had to shorten mine after i lowered it 4.5 inches

I swapped from an 8.5 to a 9.5 to a 10.5 all with the same drive shaft and U-Joint on my Express van. Same shaft for a 4L60E and 4L85E too after swapping out the extra long 4L60E yoke for an 80E yoke. Van shaft already had the larger u-joints though. Trucks would likely need a conversion u-joint.

 

[L31MaxExpress]

I used the larger rear brakes included in the 9.5" axle on my K1500 for several years; had no problems. Braking was better than the original brakes, but not so fabulous that I was totally satisfied.

Last summer I began a front-brake conversion to get rid of the small-piston front calipers in favor of the larger-piston calipers from an extended-cab K1500. Later pickups didn't use the small-piston calipers, but the early ones, like my regular-cab K1500 did.

I'm thinking I had JB3 brakes, and upgraded to JB5 calipers and master cylinder/booster. They use the same rotors. The Quick Takeup master cylinder has a larger bore to go along with the bigger caliper pistons, and the booster is larger, too.

The conversion is on hold over the winter. Popped the transmission and walked away in frustration. Things will move forward again come spring.

Best braking mod I made was hydroboost/1-ton master swap and 3500 single rear wheel calipers and pads.

GM used the larger calipers and pads on the Police Tahoes and Tahoe Limiteds.

 

[stratton]

http://www.cruizers.org/reardisc.html

https://www.ebay.com/itm/14-Bolt-GM...rentrq:05fb0cc71700a9cc32e0bea0ffefb1ea|iid:1


https://www.gmt400.com/threads/nbs-astro-knuckle-brake-upgrade.20774/

 

[Usedcarr]

I did a bunch of research before I rebuilt my old F250 Superduty front end. The consensus was rebuilt LAPS steering boxes were crap. I went with these guys and was happy with the product and the service. Yeah. You have to mail your core in and wait for a box in the mail. But you won’t have to keep swapping out steering boxes ever two years either.
https://redheadsteeringgears.com/

 

[dirtautoguy]

That’s good to know about the steering gear. It doesn’t look like they list my truck though? I think maybe I’ll try the adjustment on top of the unit and see if I can squeeze some more time out if it untill the weathers a little more friendly.

I’m not super interested in modifying the front brakes right now as the whole front was pretty much gone through maybe on the next time around though.


I think the 2 main things I’m going to focus on right now is the rear diff and then the 411 pcm swap.

Of course unless the need/oppertunity arises for something else.

 

[Schurkey]

I’ll try the adjustment on top of the unit and see if I can squeeze some more time out if it untill the weathers a little more friendly.

There are TWO adjustments for the steering gear. The "easy" one on top, that everyone ***** with and often over-tightens, and the "hard" one on the input shaft that no-one seems to know about.

You need to verify the "hard" one BEFORE doing the "easy" one.

 

[_nickjoseph]

There are TWO adjustments for the steering gear. The "easy" one on top, that everyone ***** with and often over-tightens, and the "hard" one on the input shaft that no-one seems to know about.

You need to verify the "hard" one BEFORE doing the "easy" one.

How do you mess with the “hard” one

 

[Schurkey]

How do you mess with the “hard” one

https://www.chevelles.com/techref/shea_2.html
in particular, this page starting at "12. Adjust Thrust Bearing Preload": You do that BEFORE "13. Pitman Shaft "Over-Center" Sector Adjustment"
https://www.chevelles.com/techref/PowerStrgGear(4).jpg

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