Solder vs crimps

[Caman96]

I use these connectors that are solder and shrink wrap. I’ve been unsung those for years on trailer light connections and car electrical systems. They come in different sizes to accommodate the thin and thick wiring that yiu come across on cars. A box full is $20. Back in the day pre internet it was $30 through automotive catalogs. We woodl also do the solder and just shrink wrap. I also put liquid electrical tape over the connection.

I would take any sort of scotch Loc or any crimp Connection off. I never use those

Most by far connections in your truck are crimped.

 

[thebigcar]

My buddy Joe helped me fix a piror butcher hack job. The old head unit was install with tape and twist ( I disposed of the works and got a new pigtail plug better than scotch locks I guess ) . So Joe installed the harness with the red crimps and tape.
Been wonder what is everyone's preferences for wiring.
I heard about solder wicking into the wires and the weak points of the connection ( vibrations and movement)
Crimps are mechanical bond.
Then there is the Western Union splicing method twist and solder (nasa proven that one is a srong bond)

Mechanical crimping (using the correct crimp dies) is SUPERIOR to soldered joints. Astro Pneumatical makes excellent, inexpensive ratcheting crimp tool kits for all types of connectors. That is all

 

[1989GMCSIERRA]

Most by far connections in your truck are crimped.

Sure. They are also weather pack connectors clipped and secured. Most people tend to go buy some cheap connectors and then use a pair of pliers or a tool that wasn’t designed to crimp such connector or wire. Will it work? Yeah for a while. It may be slightly loose so you may get intermittent issues.
So yes if you get the right wire, right connector for that wire size and the right crimp tool you can have a good solid connection. Most people miss one of the three usually two of the three.

I’ve been using soldered connections for 30 years. I have never had a trailer or a vehicle I worked on come back with a broken solder joint failure. A lot of trailers I worked on were boat and jet ski trailers which saw a fair amount of salt water or weather conditions. I’ve repaired crimp and scotch Loc connections quite a bit. But that’s usually just bad installation. This has been my experience with wire splicing. For interior use where there is little chance of corrosion and weather exposure crimp connections are most likely fine if you use the correct wire size connector and crumpets. . I just prefer to do it the way i do it.
I have the correct crimp connectors and the hydraulic and ratcheting tools to do such connections I just don’t do it anymore as a rule.

 

[Caman96]

So yes if you get the right wire, right connector for that wire size and the right crimp tool you can have a good solid connection. Most people miss one of the three usually two of the three.

I agree, but that same logic has to be applied to soldering as well. For any maintenance for that matter.

 

[studigggs]

Not a pro, but the pro's I watch (SMA, Watch Wes Work, Pine Hollow) use both methods. I'd say there is no right answer and it really depends on situation and experience of the installer. As long as you use only Amsoil 100% FULL Syn 50W engine oil and have 4/0 welding cable from the battery to every metal surface in your truck you'll be fine.

 

[Schurkey]

I was a "Western Union + solder + heat shrink" guy for decades. My repairs seemed to last. I had no problems.

At some point, I got to looking under the top cover at my JVC stereo receiver from about 1978. The wire connections are wrapped around a solid metal post. Oddly enough, this was called a "Wire Wrap" connection. And it was claimed to be better than a soldered connection. But it only works with solid-core wire; which means it's no good for automotive use.

Wire Wrap Is alive And Well!

Wire wrapping is an assembly technique long overlooked by the home hobbyist.

www.nutsvolts.com

Later on, I found NASA guides to wire connections. This one is too damn involved.

https://nepp.nasa.gov/files/27631/NSTD87394A.pdf

This one is involved, but easier to comprehend.

201 CRIMPED TERMINATIONS GENERAL REQUIREMENTS

What can I say? I know what works for me. I don't have repeat wire connection problems. One-and-done.

The only changes I've made to my typical processes were to buy small non-insulated copper crimping rings (ferrules) from the assortment rack at the local NAPA; If there isn't room to perform a Western Union splice, I use the crimping ring. I solder the Western Union, or I solder the crimp ring. And then I use the heat shrink tubing with adhesive on the inside, sort of a "hot-melt glue" to weatherproof the connection.

I remove "Scotchlocks" on sight. I remove and laugh at wire nuts on vehicles, but I'll use wire nuts on interior "house wiring". I will NOT use home electrical outlets or switches where you merely push the copper wire into a spring-loaded slot to make the connection. The wire gets wrapped around the screw terminal and then the screw is tightened.

 

[df2x4]

At some point, I got to looking under the top cover at my JVC stereo receiver from about 1978. The wire connections are wrapped around a solid metal post.

I have to ask, the curiosity is killing me. What model JVC?

I recently purchased a '78ish JR-S501 that has some of those "Wire Wrap" connections inside. It's currently in for service as the right channel cuts out intermittently. This is the second shop I've taken it to, the first one couldn't find the problem unfortunately. The place I took it to this time has a great reputation (and a long waiting list) but they're a little farther away. Fingers crossed...

 

[98chevy2500SS]

I also put liquid electrical tape over the connection.

Same here, that stuff is awesome.

 

[Schurkey]

I have to ask, the curiosity is killing me. What model JVC?

I recently purchased a '78ish JR-S501 that has some of those "Wire Wrap" connections inside. It's currently in for service as the right channel cuts out intermittently. This is the second shop I've taken it to, the first one couldn't find the problem unfortunately. The place I took it to this time has a great reputation (and a long waiting list) but they're a little farther away. Fingers crossed...

Oh, for ****'s sake.

I started out in '79 with a JR-S501. Still have it, and that was the one I was thinking of in the post above.

Since then, thanks to the miracle of eBay, I've "collected the whole set". I've got a couple of '201s, one that works and is my "shop" system with Bose 901 Series V speakers, another that got pulled apart to clean/lube the front-panel switches but never got put back together, a '301 I haven't done much with, a '401 in the second "house" system. The good ol' '501 is kinda wounded; it plays/cuts out/plays/cuts out. Haven't gotten around to dicking with it. There's a second '501 that was owned by the older brother of a friend of mine; it's just plain broken. I think one or more of the output transistors shorted which may have lead to power-supply problems. It pops fuses and smokes when plugged in and powered-up.

This photo was taken before I bought the '301. The '301 looks just like the '201 (same smaller chassis) except that the '201 buttons are black while the '301 has chromed buttons; and the '301 has better meters and more power (65 wpc/8 ohms).

JVC JR-S201 (35 wpc/8)
'401 (85 wpc/8)
'501 (120 wpc/8)

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One of these years, I'm going to re-pose this photo with all four models, and use a better camera. And then, some of these will be for sale. I'll keep my original '501, and the '301 for the shop, and maybe the '401 for the second house system. The second '201 will get put back together and sold, too.

The stereo amplifier in my user avatar is what replaced the '501 in the main system many years ago, along with a home-theater preamp/processor.

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[df2x4]

Oh, for ****'s sake.

This is awesome. Funny how many of us share similar interests here.

I grew up playing with my dad's JVC components including a JR-S201. Unfortunately his 201 bit the dust years ago. I really hope my 501's right channel issue is fixable because I'd like to give it to him one of these days. If not, at least it looks cool with the new lamps I guess...

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I also picked up a matching KD-S201 cassette deck and QL-A2 turntable. The turntable is complete with the original box and packaging, but unfortunately also doesn't work properly at the moment. That's next on the list after the receiver is dealt with.

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I've seen you mention those Aragon amps before, very impressive pieces!