Solder vs crimps

[johnckhall]

BTW, this is how to get an unbreakable solder joint, make the wires hold the strength and let the solder be the glue to just hold them in place

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This is the way I’ve always done it. Well, I’ve also made a loop out of both ends and twisted/soldered them together too. Then heat shrink. I assumed this was how everyone soldered. My soldering is mostly in stereo applications.

 

[Dariusz Salomon]

Hands down.... solder and shrink wrap. Butt connectors can be prone to corrosion within the joint. Either way support the harness/work you did to keep from flexing as best as possible. Zip ties/loom, etc. Wiring done with butt connectors is more prone to fraying at the end of the connector.

X2-I had problem with crimp and nearly replaced fuel pump-turned up to be simple fix.

 

[Donald Mitchell]

This is how I like mine look Flux erything then crimp then solder. Found this industrial flameproof wire in a stash and used it on the wire to the temp sending unit on the head. The other joint I just did on the truck. It's hard to keep the iron hot outside so I use a fine electronics solder that melts easier. Try to position the work so it dosen't move as any movement before it cools will make a bad joint.

 

[Tommy1234]

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[Erik the Awful]

Your harness is crimped from the factory, with no solder.

The dealer uses crimps as part of the head light harness recall on the Sorentos

Nissan did the same, as did many other manufacturers. Heat shrink crimps were a God-send to technicians. I almost exclusively buy heat shrink crimps, and I buy them in bulk. They work.

I despise people who twist wires together and tape them together without any sort of solder or crimp connection, it's a potential fire hazard. That, and scotch locks are awful as well...

+1

We're not even allowed to use them as part of the collision repair process at this point in time. What people don't understand is that crimp connectors add resistance to a line which might throw a dash light on a late model where the computer monitors light bulb function nevermind 5v sensor circuits. Crimps are a bad habit.

Insurance co's don't have a problem replacing airbag wiring harness if they get damaged and can honestly say I've never repaired one as they'll pay for a harness replacement no problem. Nobody wants the liability of a late or failed deployment. Even per gm's instructions you posted they still want the crimp soldered. So what's that prove?

As a Nissan tech, we were never allowed to perform a wiring repair on an airbag harness. Remove and replace for liability reasons. Again, your harness was built with crimp connections from the factory. Crimps work. I have worked on equipment that required Nuke certification, i.e. there was a higher standard for maintenance because the last thing you want is a bomblift failing as you're loading a nuclear munition on an aircraft. You are allowed one wire repair per wire, and crimps are acceptable. If you have to make a second repair, you replace the entire run of wire.

The issue with crimps is that you have to align them correctly on the wire before you crimp. Your crimper should be putting pressure down on the split as you crimp. That will cause the ends to curl into the wire. If you have the split facing the open end or your hand, the two sides of the crimp are going to half-moon and make a loose connection. Absolutely test your crimp before you heat shrink it.

 

[Hipster]

As a Nissan tech, we were never allowed to perform a wiring repair on an airbag harness. Remove and replace for liability reasons.

It's a definite no,no to repair srs wiring with any method.

The auto industry is evolving. Autonomous anti-collision devices, air bags which have been around for a while already, multiple computers monitoring multiple systems down to the light bulbs etc. Crimps are no longer a recommended repair method. Not even for a light bulb socket.

Other than crimped terminal ends I can't say I've ever seen a solderless joint in a vehicle. Even on our old trucks GM soldered the fuse links in and you'll see soldered joints in many automotive wiring harnesses if you've ever taken the time to pull a harness apart.

Ironic that the repair methods have evolved into an exercise back into the tried and true basics instead of what's quick and easy.

I'm with ya on the one repair per wire run thing but I doubt bomb lifts are bouncing down the road @60mph on a regular basis so I don't get your reference and it's relevance to the auto industry.

 

[AuroraGirl]

Insurance co's don't have a problem replacing airbag wiring harness if they get damaged and can honestly say I've never repaired one as they'll pay for a harness replacement no problem. Nobody wants the liability of a late or failed deployment. Even per gm's instructions you posted they still want the crimp soldered. So what's that prove?

i have to question how old that information is, as that type of repair is not happening in bodyshops by trained personnel.

Any repair method can introduce resistance in a line which can affect airbag timing when dealing with SRS.

that was a GM TSB for a 2013-2017 ish crossover , the issue was in the original wirings connection point.. I think.. I dont remember what it was that good but im pretty suree it was occupant sensor or buckle sensor Id imagine the SRS repairs being big deal and no touchy still applies

also, it wasnt to prove anything particular but just to show that solder and splicing practices are both used

 

[AuroraGirl]

Im in the worst part of the rust belt and I have to fix crimp connections on a regular basis, even those fancy shrink wrap ones. I have never had to fix one of my solder/shrink wrap connections and rarely have to fix other peoples solder joints no matter how ugly they may be. I only have problems with the crimps, the ones that go bad are either under or over pinched. Its pretty tough to mess up a solder joint with a nice long shrink tube. The only solder connections I have to fix is when they dont get it hot enough to flow into the joint.

And THANK YOU for not bringing these into the conversation!!! I wake up with cold sweats when I pick up a vehicle or trailer with these until I eliminate them:

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AND ESPECIALLY THESE

Ah the good ol switched ignition source for taylors automatic choke in 2018

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You can see where I didnt even hijack on the right wire the first time LOL

Ive since upgraded to a fuse tap and wire.

 

[yevgenievich]

For sensitive signals, crimp only at ends of the wire and no repairs in the wire. Soldered connection can have corrosion issues. Otherwise twist and solder followed by heatshrinkworks well. For splicing low voltage signals basic press type joint works well (mostly use them on phone line type signals or similar)

 

[1989GMCSIERRA]

I use these connectors that are solder and shrink wrap. I’ve been unsung those for years on trailer light connections and car electrical systems. They come in different sizes to accommodate the thin and thick wiring that yiu come across on cars. A box full is $20. Back in the day pre internet it was $30 through automotive catalogs. We woodl also do the solder and just shrink wrap. I also put liquid electrical tape over the connection.

I would take any sort of scotch Loc or any crimp Connection off. I never use those