So it begins. pulling the engine

Discussion in 'Engine Performance + Maintenance' started by kenh, Sep 20, 2020.

Car Parts
  1. thinger2

    thinger2 I'm Awesome

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    Disconnected both battery cables and unbolt the cable clamps from the top of the frame rail. This allows you to drop the whole mess on the ground with all the wires still attached.
    Install a "hot start kit"
    That moves the "s" wire to a ford type solenoid that is remote from the starter and mounted wherever you want it to be
    It eliminates chevy heat soak problems and makes life much easier
     
  2. Erik the Awful

    Erik the Awful I'm Awesome

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    You'll be okay. It's not like the oil is going to eat the seal.
     
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  3. kenh

    kenh I'm Awesome

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    Did a bunch of research on the issue. It's not an issue with the seal and oil comparability. The seal needs to be dry so a tinny bit of the seal material transfers to the crankshaft to improve the sealing qualities. The film of oil prevents the seal from mating to the crank and supposedly will be much more prone to leak. A new seal kit was only $20 and change with the discount from my work place. I'll just chalk it up to experience, or lack of.....

    It would have been nice if FelPro had printed that little tidbit of info on a piece of paper bigger than 2" x 2"!!!! And then hide that paper behind the cardboard insert on the opposite side of the parts. Heck there was a 4" x 6" space with nothing on it that would be a perfect place to place that warning!!!! I expressed that opinion very strongly in my call to FelPro.

    Ken
     
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  4. kenh

    kenh I'm Awesome

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    Last night worked on the block/bottom end. Sprayed a bunch of degreaser all over it and scrubbed and pressure washed most of it off. I also stuck my pressure washer wand in the coolant holes in the block and washed out as much as much of the radiator sealant as I could. (the block was upside down so no water could run inside) GOOD GOD! SO much gunk was flushed out. The nozzle was stuck in any orifice that allowed water into the water jacket. It was run until the water ran clear

    I got the intake all cleaned up tonight. It has some corrosion around the water passages. I'll seal that up with either some Permatex #1 or silicone. The surface of the intake was looking pretty ratty with half the paint missing so I dug out my $19.95 sandblaster and got rid of all the loose paint. I'm going to give it a coat of aluminum high temp paint. Should look much better!

    Still waiting on the heads to come back. My machinist is going completely through them so they will be "just like new". I have to decide on a color to paint them. Was thinking about going old school orange but the valve covers are red so maybe I paint the heads the same color????? SO many decisions! LOL

    Ken
     
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  5. PlayingWithTBI

    PlayingWithTBI Desert Old Guy

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    Back in the 70s I painted the valve covers red, the heads white with a blue star, and the block blue. Then I went with purple LOL.
     
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  6. Erik the Awful

    Erik the Awful I'm Awesome

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    I just bought VHT gold for my budget engine. I'd go with gold, purple, or bright green, but then I'm a dork. Don't trust my fashion sense, or lack thereof.
     
  7. kenh

    kenh I'm Awesome

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    Got my heads back on Saturday morning. I had the machinist not assemble them. I did a real mild port job. Just a clean up really. I did unshroud the intake valves and remove the lip into the quench area. As far as porting goes, I just cleaned up all the rough edges and radiused the roof of the ports where they enter the valve seat area. My carbide bits didn't have a long enough shank to reach the bottom of the ramp in the intake ports so they stayed as cast. I only spent about 4 hours total on the porting.

    So the heads are on the block, valve train back in place and waiting to adjust the valves before I put the intake back on. I took the time today to clean up the intake and accessory mounts. Not sure I like it after the fact but I painted the three pices an aluminum color. At least they are uniform color now and not all stained and ratty looking.

    Ken
     
  8. kenh

    kenh I'm Awesome

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    The engine is back in. Everything under the truck is done except the torque converter, exhaust and the dust cover over the flywheel. Broke the oil pressure sensor some how??? That's OK as it was acting funny anyway! Oil pressure would spike and bounce back and forth. Worse when cold. All the electrical connections left on top along with the accessories and headers. Should be up and running by Saturday sometime.....I hope HAHA

    Ken
     
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  9. kenh

    kenh I'm Awesome

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    NOTE TO SELF...... Install spark plugs BEFORE installing the headers!!! LOL

    The truck came with a set of Pacesetter shorty direct replacement headers. They directly replaced the cast iron exhaust manifold. Unfortunately spark plug access is not very good. The second from rear plug on each bank is totally inaccessible with the headers in place. Can't even get a socket on the plug. The PO also did some goofy things that I'm trying to work around. Missing fasteners here and there and some half assed (IMO) things.

    Truck should be up and running tomorrow. Need to figure out what he did with the distributor position/timing. He had #1 facing strait forward on the engine, NOT slightly off to the left like it should be.

    Ken
     
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  10. PlayingWithTBI

    PlayingWithTBI Desert Old Guy

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    That's who makes the Summit Racing shorty headers. You can change the plugs without removing the headers but you have to get creative. Such as cutting down your plug socket so it is just long enough to get on the plug and allow the 3/8" square drive to turn it without hitting the electrode, or use a 5/8" box wrench, or a combination of plug socket and box wrench. A couple are easier done from below. Yes, it's fun but after a couple beers - no problem!
    :cheers:
     
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