Snow Plowing HEAVY Snow...Pic heavy for your enjoyment

[1998_K1500_Sub]

LED's I can try disabling the alternators but the radio is fine when I am angling or lifting the plow which draws a ton more power than the lights. Also I have an electric radiator fan which doesnt effect the radio, its only the lights.

If the noise is only in the RF portion of radio (not CD / USB) you might try putting bypass capacitors across the leads of each light, right at the fixture... or even internal to the fixture if that's possible. The closer you can connect them to the noise source, the better.

My definition of “bypass capacitors” is .1uF ceramic disk capacitor (about the size of a nickel) in parallel with a small electrolytic capacitor (~50uF 16V, about the size of a Chiclet). Most electrolytic capacitors are polarized, so be sure to connect the negative lead to NEG.

This *might* help mitigate noise generated by the LEDs, i.e., by shunting it at the fixture and preventing it from propagating into the wiring (which acts as an antenna). Or, it might not

I have a number of other ideas that are probably best to try first, to isolate / identify the problem. PM me if you want.

Here's a couple links to Mouser Electronics showing the parts:

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Vishay-BC-Components/D472K33Y5PH63L2R?qs=WcHCFKihsBoIk0NgnmCL4Q%3D%3D&mgh=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIlb2WtJ-W9gIVbCqzAB3Z_Q7QEAQYASABEgJ81vD_BwE

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/CDE-Illinois-Capacitor/476TTA016M?qs=3tP%252BN51vMXdawNdOcuVCrQ%3D%3D

 

[Jesse_Wenting]

I love how you've got the bed filled to the brim with cinder blocks lol

Actually I have a question for you radio guys, those lights are just cheap ebay lights and when I turn them on the radio goes to static. Is there any way to fix that without getting new lights?

I get this with my CB when I turn on my LED lights. I only turn on my LEDs when I can't see well so I always turn off the radio too so I can concentrate, not sure if my radio gets the same static.

 

[RichLo]

If the noise is only in the RF portion of radio (not CD / USB) you might try putting bypass capacitors across the leads of each light, right at the fixture.

My definition of “bypass capacitors” is .1uF ceramic disk capacitor (about the size of a nickel) in parallel with a small electrolytic capacitor (~50uF 16V, about the size of a Chiclet). Those electrolytics are polarized, so be sure to connect the negative lead to NEG.

This *might* help mitigate noise generated by the LEDs, i.e., by shunting it at the fixture and preventing it from propagating into the wiring (which acts as an antenna). Or, it might not

Here's a couple links to Mouser Electronics showing the parts:

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Vishay-BC-Components/D472K33Y5PH63L2R?qs=WcHCFKihsBoIk0NgnmCL4Q%3D%3D&mgh=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIlb2WtJ-W9gIVbCqzAB3Z_Q7QEAQYASABEgJ81vD_BwE

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/CDE-Illinois-Capacitor/476TTA016M?qs=3tP%252BN51vMXdawNdOcuVCrQ%3D%3D

THANK YOU! For the price, its worth a shot! Yea its only when I'm tuned into the radio, CDs are fine.

How about a fix for having the radio cut out for a second when I start lifting the plow or start angling? Once the alternators catch up the radio comes back on again even with the high load from the plow still going. I was thinking about just adding a normal stereo capacitor to the power inlet of the radio for this. would that work? Or do I just need bigger batteries?

 

[1998_K1500_Sub]

How about a fix for having the radio cut out for a second when I start lifting the plow or start angling? Once the alternators catch up the radio comes back on again even with the high load from the plow still going. I was thinking about just adding a normal stereo capacitor to the power inlet of the radio for this. would that work? Or do I just need bigger batteries?

Does the power lead from the radio go directly to the battery(ies), i.e., does it share a power path with the plow's electrical demands?

Does the radio share a ground path with the plow's electrical demands?

If either is the case, re-wire to eliminate the common electrical path(s) and see if that improve matters.

Otherwise, try a 2000uF or larger (25V or greater) electrolytic capacitor across the radio's power leads, and put a diode between your +12V source and the capacitor / radio. The diode will isolate the voltage dip and the capacitor will carry the load of the radio if the voltage dip is brief. Heck, you might try a 22,000uF electrolytic if you want, no harm in it if you can find one cheap. I sorta view this as a hack, but if it's quick and does the job, then... OK!

I'm generally a "let's find the root cause and institute a proper fix" kinda guy

 

[RichLo]

I dont know what I'm looking at in that mouser website to add that capacitor and diode to my order, can you please give me a couple more cheat sheet links?? I dont mind hacks if they work.

The plow is run through a relay and the motor is bigger than a starter motor. I really think its just the initial voltage drop cutting out the radio until the alternators stabilize.

 

[F4U-1A]

Winter. It got mild here yesterday 34F, then we got hit with a lot of rain. Then a flash freeze at about 0400 down to 4F. What a mess, crashes everywhere. Ice rocks now. But hey, get out the ice skates and hockey sticks. LOL

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[1998_K1500_Sub]

If the noise is only in the RF portion of radio (not CD / USB) you might try putting bypass capacitors across the leads of each light, right at the fixture... or even internal to the fixture if that's possible. The closer you can connect them to the noise source, the better.

(followup)

I did a little reading since this morning and I'm backpedaling on my solution to the LED light / radio noise problem. It appears the issue might be with noise radiating from the LED driver circuit, and I'm guessing that my solution isn't going to mitigate that problem. You can certainly try my proposal, but "use at your own risk".

Yes, there are "engineering approaches" to solving this problem but, without researching your particular situation on-site using a methodical approach and maybe some equipment, e.g., a spectrum analyzer or a calibrated receiver that allows one to measure received power (which I do have), then one's pretty much shooting in the dark... and that's not a good path toward a solution.

You might try disconnecting all your "noisy" lights, and then alternately connecting each one, individually, to determine if each, or only a few, of them is causing a problem. Too, you may find that the light's proximity to the radio's antenna is a factor... "closer" causing more interference, farther less-so, so keep that in the back of your mind if / as you test each. If just one light is problematic, then consider replacing it or disabling it. If many or all, then consider other options, such as...

You might try moving / installing anew the radio antenna to be as distant from the LEDs (the noise source) as possible, which might mean mounting one at the back of the truck and running the coax into the cab from there. But... I don't put a lot of faith in this option without knowing more about the amount of noise power the LEDs are producing and thus whether moving the antenna 5-10' farther from them would make significant difference. Too, a remote antenna solution might require better coax, e.g., double-braid or foil-shielded, to prevent noise pick-up by the coax itself.

 

[RedneckWithPaychecks]

I would have the effort to plow my driveway but I've got so many stuff in it (my travel trailer, my utility trailer full of scrap metal, and all of my vehicles). Good thing my snowblower works every time I operate it, but not good is that i blew ALL of the snow onto my Tahoe and not where it should be in my lawn. Worst of all I needed to use the Tahoe because it has the best heated seats

 

[RPF207]

Couple of my truck, was pushing snow back and got too close to the ditch. Had to winch out. My 3 year old son had to tell the story of how we got stuck to everyone haha.

 

[RichLo]

wow, SAS 4x4 HD dump bed, narrow dually, everything mine hopes to be when it grows up.