Semi float rear end

[dirtautoguy]

It came from a 4x4 I did check that. Iv called a few places about changing out the gears in it.

One shop told me $400+ parts (they also did my transmission a year or two ago)

one shop said they might have a ring and pinion new in the box that he would sell me for 1/2 price if it’s what I need (idk labor cost yet)

And one shop is getting back to me in the morning.

Does anyone know what a decent price is to get this done?

I figure the axle is worth something and it depending on the cost it might be work putting a little money into. Probably like $600 max but idk if that’s enough?

 

[dirtautoguy]

Iv weighed out my options and it’s just not feasible to get the axle redone right now. Maybe in the future.

However, that got me to thinking. Does anyone know if the brake backing plates will bolt up directly up to my 10 bolt axle so I could have a 10 bolt axle with the 11 inch brakes?

 

[dirtautoguy]

So I know it’s been a while but I finally got another axle.

It came out of a 97 k1500 and only has 74000 miles on it. And it has the matching gears for my truck the only down side is I was hoping for a g80 model but that’s not a deal breaker for me.

I have inspected the gears and everything looks brand new and feels atleast to my knowledge tight with the exception of the pinion has maybe 1/4-1/2” of turn but so does the other axle I have and I believe the one in my truck currently too.

the other issue is that the thrust washer for one of the spider gears is missing so I’ll need to replace that.

the axle seals I’m not sure what to do with they look like there might be just barely a hint of oil on the seal but I can’t really tell if it’s oil if it is it’s just barely seeping. Is that something I should just replace before I fill it? I’ll be pulling the pin to do the washer anyway?

And the last question I have is what u joint do I need to convert it to fit my driveshaft? My truck is a rcsb with a steel shaft.

Iv read a million things and they don’t seem to agree..... I believe I need a 1310-1350 joint. I went to Napa and luckily got one of the more knowledgeable guys (iv worked with him quite a bit) and he thinks from what it sounds like the Napa uj447 should work.

Any input on this stuff? Thanks

 

[Schurkey]

447 U-joint is correct. The driveshaft pushes a little farther into the trans--polish the yoke.

"I" would wait on the axle seals, unless you're replacing brake shoes anyway. If you're re-using shoes, wait on the seals, see if they're really leaking.

 

[dirtautoguy]

Yesturday I FINALLY got the new axle in the truck. The job really wasn’t that bad of a job just time consuming but I also didn’t hurry....

after I got it in I took it for a test drive everything felt great and solid and it even seemed to drive smoother?? Could be in my head though. I drove to A dirt parking lot and tried out the brakes.

On a hard brake all 4 tires locked up (something I had a very hard time accomplishing with the 10 bolt axle. However on the first hard brake lock up I blew out a wheel cylinder and my pedal went almost to the floor. Of course around here the parts store closed at 4pm Saturday and won’t open till 8am Monday.

I plan on doing shoes and cylinders this week. And I think it will all be good to go.

A couple things I’m still a little concerned about:

The driveshaft isn’t bottomed out but I am concerned it might with our camp trailer hooked to it. Does anyone know a good way to estimate the change with the trailer on?

And on one side of the brakes there is a little window looks like it’s perforated right behind the adjustment wheel. The other side has a little clip and a access hole there. I’m assuming the side with the perforated window can be removed? I gave a half hearted try with a punch and hammer but was sure so
I didn’t go to western on it. The parts kit I have have the window clip seals so
I assume it will come out with some persuasion.



a couple things To anyone wanting to do this job that I experienced:

PROPER jack stands make a huge difference. I had a small harbor freight set but didn’t feel comfortable with the way how tipsy they were. So I bought a 6 ton set for $50. In my opinion $50 for something that will last the rest of my life AND save my life Is money well spent. Plus no one wants to hear about a terrible accident $50 could have prevented.

next I changed the rubber line from the frame to the axle as far as I know it was original. When I tried to screw the new lines together the line but kept trying to
Cross thread it felt normal but the bit would be crooked I’m not sure if this is common but with patience and some time I finally got it straight but it could Have been a disaster.

the u joint I used for a 96 k1500 rcsb steel driveshaft was napa uj447 it worked perfect.

find a diagram and double check everything. When I got into the brakes I found someone had been in there and there was a piece missing. $10 for a whole hardware kit for one piece and it was solved.

the parking brake cables from my old 10 bolt fit right into the 14 bolt and appears they will work perfect (need adjustment)

line wrenches will help a lot with brake lines especially in high corrosion areas.

one thing in all my research that I didn’t read about is the little metal piece that sits on top of the leafs was different from the 10 bolt. Luckily I kept the 14 bolt ones, I had thought they were the same.

most of the job was doable by one person but there are a few things 2 people are required. I.e wrestling the new one under the truck. (My dad sat in his “directors chair” most of the time haha but was lots of help.

I think that’s the major points I can think of above all be safe!!!