SAS FRONT DRIVESHAFT

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86454k30

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Sorry guys been busy. The short answer is NO I haven't figured it out yet. I called Jesse a couple weeks ago and he needed to know the yoke spline count and depth....there are options. Of course mine is the pita one which is 31 spline. I haven't called Jesse at HAD back yet. I have been trying to do it locally...frustrating. I actually clearanced the factory yoke but, I don't think it is enough....plus I checked today and apparently a "conversion" joint for the axle end isn't as easy as I thought.

When I talked to Jesse he was ball parking me at $550.00 plus for a drive shaft and new t-case yoke. I will keep you guys informed as I go. If anyone has a better idea of "off" the shelf pieces I would love to hear it. In fact I am debating removing my stock t-case yoke, having it machined down, then taking a np208 flange and machining the back side off and having it welded to the back side of my stock yoke. this way I can run a GM saginaw style CV....which I already have.
 

TylerZ281500

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eh the welding yoke idea is a good idea yet a very bad one. you might have excessive runout from the welds being there. the yokes right out of the box arent perfect from the get go introduce some welds and they start to distort like crazy. 550 sounds just about right for what itd cost if i made one at work.
 

silver98z71

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In fact I am debating removing my stock t-case yoke, having it machined down, then taking a np208 flange and machining the back side off and having it welded to the back side of my stock yoke. this way I can run a GM saginaw style CV....which I already have.

That is what I would do, without a doubt. It's not like you would be out much of anything (other than machine time, a Saginaw flange yoke and welding comsumables) if it DIDN'T work.
 

86454k30

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And to be honest....this isn't a wheeler or winter rig but I do want it to be functional....just for when they have a tractor pull in this area...LOL
 

4thesporty

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Just for clarity, this is the BW 4401 TC, right?

Is it in the truck in your avatar photo? I always thought the BW TCs only found their way to the crew cab trucks and everything else got the NP TCs.
 

silver98z71

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If you turned down the BW yoke to (just guessing here) the same diameter as the seal surface, then bored a Saginaw flange to have a close interface fit with a contact area ~.75" in length I highly doubt you would have much trouble out of it. You also could bore a piece of plate steel (not sure how thick it should be, 1.0">x>.625") to accept the OD of the what-used-to-be-BW yoke and if you have an accurate way to drill the holes in the Saginaw pattern that would work nice too. It may not hurt to be able to turn a location ring on the flange so the driveshaft will center itself on the flange and the bolts only provide the required friction between driveshaft and flange.


Just a quick thought.
 

86454k30

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That is pretty much my plan. I am going to buy a new yoke so I don't have any down time. Then have a machine shop machine a NP208 flange yoke and machine my BW yoke and mate them together. I'm still messing the ride/drive of the truck. I put on a set of rough county N2.0 shocks and I think they are too stiff so I'm either going to buy some 5100 bilsteins or rs9000's. Also I think I am going to put a track bar in it.

I will keep you guys up to date on the driveline soga.
 

86454k30

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Little update. I spoke to Jesse at HAD last wednesday and he happened to have a flange yoke for my BW t-case. I ordered it from him. It is a used piece in good condition and he said they aren't available anymore. I am curious when I get it if I can figure out what it came off of. He wants $650.00 for a cv front driveline! Few more things to do before I pull that trigger.
 
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