Sanden 4440 install

KCusick81

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Don't forget that the compressor needs to be primed with oil. Pour some directly into the suction port, then spin the compressor by hand until it starts to burp oil out of the discharge.
The sanden compressor says that it comes prefilled. Is it still necessary to add extra? When I prime it, do I spin the pulley or the clutch? I spun the clutch a bit after installation. I've never performed any a/c repair so it's all new to me.
 

KCusick81

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Also, as I'm sitting here letting the truck warm up to go pick up parts, I turned on the heat because we had a storm come through and it's a bit chilly. Not thinking about the fact that I just performed repairs on the ac system. Anyway, when I did, water started coming out of the blower and into the floor board. What is that about? It has been raining fairly steadily last night and today. Further, as I'm sitting here writing this, there are some odd ticking noises coming from what sounds like under the dash. The hvac controls are off. Is it safe for me to drive the truck with the system not fully repaired? Everything is connected and closed off so I wouldn't see a reason it would matter but thought I should ask. Again, a/c work is all new to me. Thank you ahead of time for your help.
 

1998_K1500_Sub

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I'm assuming that it is the original condenser. Though I can't be certain. I've only had the truck for about 2 1/2 months. After some research yesterday, I've decided to go ahead and replace the condenser and the refrigerant line as well ( figured why not? I've replaced everything else). While I have your attention, is there a specific brand I should use? I've heard mixed reviews on several of the aftermarket brands. From what I've seen OEM is no longer an option. I'm considering replacing the evaporator core as well. Do you think I should? Also, if I end up replacing everything, a flush would no longer be necessary, correct? The orifice tube did in fact have some sludge and debris when I pulled it. Since you brought up the issue of oiling the system. The sanden came prefilled with what it states should be the proper amount to oil a standard system for which it was designed. Do I still need to add some oil into certain components? (I got some extra sp-15). If so, how much?

This is a terse reply as I’m busy all day and I can’t address every topic. Others may, there are lots of experienced members here.

First things first, here’s some good reading, so READ IT:

What’s within doesn’t ALL apply to you but it’s a knowledge base worthy of review.

Moving on…

Replace the condenser with one listed as parallel flow. Check RockAuto et al. for offerings, pricing and availability.

Drain compressor fully and diligently (rotate compressor to help liberate trapped oil, tip housing various directions to facilitate drainage toward drain port). Assume 0.5oz remains within. I don’t reuse oil but some do. Backfill compressor with 3.5oz of (new) oil and follow @L31MaxExpress previous directions. Add 4oz of oil to receiver/ dryer, this will help lube compressor on initial start when refrigerant starts to flow to it from the receiver/ dryer. As such, the oil added totals 8oz (240cc), which is the recommended amount for your system.

Keep everything spotless and clean. If you introduce any contamination into the system now, or allow any to remain, it’s there for all time, coursing through your compressor as it circulates in the system.
 
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1998_K1500_Sub

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When I prime it, do I spin the pulley or the clutch? I spun the clutch a bit after installation. I've never performed any a/c repair so it's all new to me.

Spin the one that turns harder :) that’s the compressor clutch. The pulley spins freely.

Replacing the evaporator is tough… but clearly the one you have needs to be flushed (multiple times IMHO) since you mentioned the orifice tube showed debris.

The system needs to be CLEAN, else you’ll have to fix it yet again later.
 
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KCusick81

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Spin the one that turns harder :) that’s the compressor clutch. The pulley spins freely.

Replacing the evaporator is tough… but clearly the one you have needs to be flushed (multiple times IMHO) since you mentioned the orifice tube showed debris.

The system needs to be CLEAN, else you’ll have to fix it yet again later.
Yeah, the actual clutch, the black part that spins when it kicks on is the one I spun.
 

Paul 97 tahoe

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Don't forget that the compressor needs to be primed with oil. Pour some directly into the suction port, then spin the compressor by hand until it starts to burp oil out of the discharge.
Your Sanden compressor comes prefilled with pag46 Oil that it calls for, don't add any oil. Also your Sanden works like 4 stroke engine, the pag46 stays in the crankcase. Your old compressor was like a 2 stroke engine and the oil circulates through the system.
 

1998_K1500_Sub

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Also your Sanden works like 4 stroke engine, the pag46 stays in the crankcase. Your old compressor was like a 2 stroke engine and the oil circulates through the system.

That’s just wrong :)

Read the Sanden SD compressor service guide, it says something very different.

See Section 6.8.1 Oil Flow Theory…

"Compressor lubrication occurs as the oil which circulates with the refrigerant passes through the compressor crankcase during operation. The Sanden SD series compressor achieves optimal durability and cooling performance when oil circulates through the system at a ratio of 3.3% to 8% oil to refrigerant."


Too, "all Sanden R-134a SD7H15 piston compressor models use Sanden SP-15 PAG oil for service", a PAG 80 oil as stated in the Sanden Compressor Installation Instructions, attached:

I trust Proverbs 23:9 isn't relevant here.

.
 

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L31MaxExpress

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That’s just wrong :)

Read the Sanden compressor service guide, it says something very different.

See Section 6.8.1 Oil Fliw Theory…

"Compressor lubrication occurs as the oil which circulates with the refrigerant passes through the compressor crankcase during operation. The Sanden SD series compressor achieves optimal durability and cooling performance when oil circulates through the system at a ratio of 3.3% to 8% oil to refrigerant."

I read the manual and had to buy an additional bottle of the SP-15 which is 100 viscosity. I flushed the system. I have a total of 10 oz SP-15 in the 68oz R134a system.
 
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