Same issue with new 4l60e

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

D_chaseZ71

Newbie
Joined
Jul 27, 2020
Messages
5
Reaction score
3
Location
Texas
1997 k1500 silverado- My speedometer started jumping up and down one morning and the trans was jerking I lost 3rd and 4th. Then the speedometer stuck at 0 I made it to work in 2nd and after work it ran fine with no issues (except fluctuating speedo) until it warmed up then same thing happened again. Got home and let it sit for an hour and was able to make it a mile or so before it happened again. I figured 3 and 4 clutch pack went and got a new transmission 0 miles and in drive its stuck in 1st I can manually shift to 2nd but 3rd and D is like putting it in neutral. I then changed VSS, didn't fix it so I replaced wire and now pulling like 3.0 volts still didn't fix it. I even swapped a few clusters around still no speedo and no shift. Unplug the pigtail and it starts in 2nd and I can manually shift to 3rd but no 4th. I've checked all fuses and checked wiring harness. I've been told possible ignition switch or harness but I've never had issues with cranking the truck. I've also got ground issues could it be a ground problem causing this. This problem came out of nowhere and I cant find anything online and mechanic shops say it has to be electric but I dont know where else to look
 

thinger2

I'm Awesome
Joined
Jul 6, 2019
Messages
1,600
Reaction score
4,048
Location
Tacoma
Definitly fix the grounding issues before anything else.
Its a known problem with these trucks.
A good time to do the "big three" upgrade.
Also the battery cables on these can look good on the outside but be corroded under the plastic ends.
It sounds like its going into limp mode but you can chase your tail for days trying to diagnose it unless you make sure the "base" circuits are good
 
Last edited:

D_chaseZ71

Newbie
Joined
Jul 27, 2020
Messages
5
Reaction score
3
Location
Texas
Thank you I have done some more looking around today noticed that my main plug is a little loose but I am pulling the same power off of pain e as I am the battery I'm also pulling good voltage from the ignition to the fuse I am going to try a jumper wire with a fuse on the ignition after I replace the main plug and that way I should know if it's a bad ignition or not
 

98chevy2500SS

Specializes in Accessories 101
Joined
Feb 10, 2017
Messages
3,512
Reaction score
4,148
Location
Iowa

D_chaseZ71

Newbie
Joined
Jul 27, 2020
Messages
5
Reaction score
3
Location
Texas
Well I tested the harness from the firewall all the way to the column. I'm starting to think it's the cluster connector I'm going to check it tomorrow any advice on that?
 

D_chaseZ71

Newbie
Joined
Jul 27, 2020
Messages
5
Reaction score
3
Location
Texas
And does my truck have a vss buffer I looked in the glovebox but a buddy of mine said its probably part of the pcm
 

thegawd

I'm Done!
Joined
Feb 29, 2020
Messages
2,265
Reaction score
4,253
Location
The Country Formerly Known as Canada!
When my ignition switch failed I had the following symptoms. No speedometer, no PRNDL indicator light, a check engine light with 6-7 transmission codes, stuck in 3rd but can manually start moving in 1st or 2nd (cant remember) to get up to speed and then shift to 3rd it would clunk going in as the pressure is set to full in limp mode.

**** i had this intermittently for about year before it became permanent. My Burb has a built stage 3 Heavy Duty tranny that was rebuilt like 16 months prior. I troubleshot on the side of the road, in my drive way, found and fixed lots of small **** while doing so like the grounds, big 3 upgrade with 4guage insulated wire. Nothing changed. I had got some technical manuals and studied the wiring diagrams n ****, followed some troubleshooting flows. **** I traced all the wiring from the ignition switch to the tranny plug on Pin E. It almost always read the same as the battery which I couldn't understand, think I fixed something only to have it happen again a few minutes down the road. I never figured it out while it was intermittently failing and then it became permanent.

While my tranny was out of warranty I used an amazing mom n pop race shop in the business for over 50 years and they stand behind their word. They told me that I could safely drive it to them which was over an hour away and they would go over it and fix the problem.

I must have missed some key information or something while explaining the symptoms and in a future conversation when I said something about the prndl indicator light not working he said on the spot that he could have told me that over the phone. But before that, before he could diagnose the tranny the ****** started working again and everything worked. Eventually the tech turns the key again and it fails..... he gives me a call and tells me it the ignition switch. All the troubleshooting I did, combing over 4l60e tech manuals and schematics, following troubleshooting flows.... somehow I missed anything to do with the ignition switch as the culprit. I felt like a dumb ass.

We agreed that if there was anything wrong with the tranny they would fix it for free, anything else was extra and they started to fix the ignition switch thinking I would sa go for it, probably because I spent some serious coin with the prior but I couldn't afford it and told them to put it all back together.

These are great guys and I appreciate what they did for me but I went into a you pick junkyard and bought 3 ac delco ignition switches complete with lock cylinders and keys for like $35 plus a bunch of other awesome scores.

The first ignition switch worked instantly. Such relief. Iv wanted to replace with a new one but cant bring myself to spend that much on something so damn simple. See I tried to fix the switch, just to see if I could. It's almost impossible, a robot must pit these together LOL.

They fail by carbon build up on the rocker switch contacts. It's just that simple. Rubbing alcohol cleans that **** up but reassembling is impossible LOL.

Troubleshooting this is almost impossible but junkyard switches are cheap and chances are good that they will still work. If this ever happens to me again I will save the headache and swap it out first.

Take care

Al
 

D_chaseZ71

Newbie
Joined
Jul 27, 2020
Messages
5
Reaction score
3
Location
Texas
Alright guys I appreciate all of the information I have done everything replaced my ignition switch replaced my VSS replaced some wiring I even went as far as taking my truck to the Chevy dealership then three different transmission shops an old gentleman that specializes in the 4L60E told me that it is my VSS buffer so I'm going to pick one up right now after I get it replaced I will let y'all know if this is fixed my headache or not lol thank you all so much for the input
 
Joined
Nov 2, 2017
Messages
16
Reaction score
4
Location
St. Louis
Most likely the ignition switch; when it starts to go bad, the truck will go into "limp mode." My 97 did the same thing, once I replaced the ignition switch, everything worked as it should. Is the SES light on?

Edit: here's the one I got: https://www.amazon.com/Standard-Motor-Products-US296-Ignition/dp/B000C803KC/ref=sr_1_3?crid=11AXNU0NJ6QO&dchild=1&keywords=ignition+switch&qid=1595999390&s=automotive&sprefix=ignition+switch,aps,212&sr=1-3&vehicle=1997-47-454------------1&vehicleName=1997+Chevrolet+K1500
Quick Question for you..... Amazon mentions it won't fit my 1998 but your signature has a 1998 and the original repair is for a 1997.....assuming nothing changed from 97-98 but just thought I would reach out to you and confirm - Thanks!!!
 
Top