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pgutier1

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I sourced two cross-members from California. Rear spare tire carrier and the rear fuel tank support

Cleaning them up, grinding them down to fresh steel with some 80 grit did the trick
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Then went through the POR15 clear, metal prep, then cleaner before being coated in POR15
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This might be a stupid question...here it goes. On my rig, the roof is notorious for rust. I sanded it down to bare metal and then primed the whole roof and the rust came back, lol!. Would your proccess work well with the roof? I plan to paint the whole truck with a bed liner...

These parts look amazing!
 

pgutier1

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I've started with the frame! Wire cup on an angle grinder and some 80 grit paper for tough areas. I used simple green to clean it up, POR15 metal prep for 45 minutes followed by water to clean up.

The angle grinder did not fit well on the inside of the C so I took decided to do the outside lengths from rear to front cab mount.

I have a media blaster from HF that I need to setup and test on the inside and hard to get corners. Any other suggestions? Maybe roloc grinding wheels or something

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This is what I want to do as well...nice!
 

pgutier1

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Being from the East Coast we see a lot of rust... I have been on the lookout for a 14Bolt FF but nothing caught my eye with a good price attached to it. I have a friend on a trip to the west coast whose going to be bringing back a nbs 11.5" 14Bolt FF axle. Waiting to hear back on his findings
NBS 11.5 FF for the win!
 

pgutier1

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The chain metal weed wacker from Matt’s Garage on YouTube worked very well to loosen up all the scale and general dirt in the boxed section of the frame.

I then used Eastwood’s Internal Frame coating to juice all the nook and crannies. This stuff runs like water and gets everywhere, if I didn’t use every factory hole to stick the hose into I would have taped them up. I’ll be doing a second green coat then two coats of black to finish off the boxed section
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Holy crap this is great work!
 

pgutier1

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Get one out of a van. If you ever noticed the track width is narrower on 4wd's, lifted with some tires looks goofy. Van rears match the fronts width. Stay away from the 2000's and up, they have Dana's and discs but have the govlock, and not sure how they are. At least in a 14ff they are pretty strong, just can be unpredictable for for semi serious offroading. Just takes some practice knowing how they lock/unlock.
Can you please explain a little more on this. Are you speaking about the NBS 11.5 FF? Don't these only come on the 2000's and up? I also want a NBS 11.5 FF so get one from a van because it has a wider track?
 

pgutier1

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Today I cracked open the four bottle kit of UPOL Raptor liner. I was still within 7 days of the epoxy primer so no additional prep was required other than masking

I covered from the top of firewall to the rear cab seam with two coats. Each coat took two bottle. Shot with supplied gun at 50psi full trigger. I wasn’t happy after shaking the bottle for 2 minutes as instructed and decided to shake each bottle for 10.

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This is what I'm talking about, perfect!
 

pgutier1

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I am extremely proud of myself. Yesterday I followed up on one of those too good to be true marketplace ads and came home with a Cummins. I have so much to learn it’s not even funny but we all have to start somewhere.

1997 12valve Cummins, CPL: 2175. P-pump, inter cooled out of a manual trans Dodge
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Yes please!
 

pgutier1

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Masked up the cab, shot a coat of SPI epoxy on the floor followed up with SEM seam sealer and a second coat of epoxy. I’ve got to cut off that seat belt buckle and clean up some tight corners but a paint brush should take care of the touch up.

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WOW, excellent work!
 

pgutier1

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Finished up the filler work on the roof, threw down three coats of epoxy over it then got the cab flipped over with the help of few good friends

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What kind of epoxy did you use on the roof? Is this a better way to prep a roof than POR15?
 
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